Rooted in heritage and culture, the label Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur resolutely stands for luxury menswear. With over two-and-a-half decades in the industry as a blue-blooded couturier, Rathore made his signature bandhgala a staple in men’s wardrobes. From the who’s who of Bollywood including Anil Kapoor, Amitabh Bachchan and Shah Rukh Khan, to royalty such as HH Maharaja Manujendra Shah, Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal, HH Padmanabh Singh and the Maharaja of Jaipur, among others, the rich and famous have flaunted his bespoke timeless pieces with panache.
The Jodhpur designer speaks to Express Features about his journey that began from Mehrangarh Fort to the global success story it has become. Excerpts from the interview:
You just completed more than two decades in the fashion industry. Happy with your achievements?
At Brand Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur, the idea has always been to reinvent, while staying true to the ethos of heritage. It is imperative to keep moving forward, no matter what, and constantly changing gears, in keeping with the need of the hour, as that has always been of key essence to us. It is a bit like sharpening a pencil. The Raghavendra Rathore brand has always tried to focus on unconventional things, and thinking out of the box, rather than going with the flow, or for that matter, getting too obsessed with trends and set patterns.
The brand is honoured to have led the way for the industry, in terms of disseminating a message of cultural and heritage clothing in a classic space. RBL’s and Ermenegildo Zegna’s investment into the brand will now fuel the next phase of growth.
How has the journey been for you in purely sartorial terms?
Having had people constantly ask me where one can buy the bandhgala jacket, I started a small studio 24 years ago to tailor womenswear and menswear bandhgala jackets, out of a small quaint room in the corner of a house. Little did I know that the power of the bandhgala was such that stalwarts across the globe would actually enjoy wearing it.
In 1994, model Meher Bhasin sashayed wearing a beige bandhgala jacket and Jodhpur breeches for a fashion show at the magical 1,200-year-old Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur. The jacket was sharply tailored and fitted her like a glove, with two satin princess panels on either side. As she descended the stairs in the Zenana section of the fort, it was the first time that fashionistas witnessed the profound impact of a tailored bandhgala.
This is where the story of our brand started. Since then, the bandhgala has become synonymous with the Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur label. The heritage and history attached with the aesthetics in design have always played a vital role in evolving the brand.
The bandhgala has become more versatile now than ever before, and women ensembles too have begun to sport the style. What was the initial idea behind it?
As a menswear bespoke brand, when the idea of women’s wear was presented, the designers at the atelier worked with their unique strengths to convert the demand, and create products that are not only unique from a fashion perspective, but also stay classic to their core idea of tailoring and representing stylish heritage clothing. Owing to a simple fact that the life of a bespoke brand is outside the cycle of fashion weeks, and much more personalised and in close contact with menswear customers, the approach is similar when the brand attempts to create a women’s wardrobe.
How have you grown as a designer, and how has your brand evolved over the years?
Growing up in a house with secret corridors and attics, I clearly remember my brush with unusual cargo, boxes, cupboards and handmade trunks that were stacked up in the stores – each full of splendours from around the world, frozen in time. The maze and the mysteries of old forts, palaces and cities, offer a treasure trove of endless ideas. These drove me to make a career that was born out of passion and love for creating design of any form or space. For inspiration, for a brand like ours, we occasionally dive into the attic of ideas, to create new products for a more contemporary time, but with the essence of the past.
You now run a design school as well. Why did you get involved with a school?
The help and support that I received in my early educational years taught me to also impart education. The Gurukul School of Design, currently just in its first year, is intended to be a game-changer with respect to design education in Asia. The 360-degree approach towards all aspects of design is a unique methodology that the school is based on. It aims to make designers of the future, all-rounders.
What would be your ideal look for men this summer?
A deconstructed cotton suit cut like a shirt that emulates ease in dressing, is the perfect travel suit that is weightless and easy to pack.
How is the brand reinventing itself for millennials?
The brand is predominantly creating things within a classic space, with innovations and tweaks in design that are subject to purpose, function and lifestyle. With this being the focus, it is easy to adapt to any time and space. The Summer 2019 collection is extremely wearable, made with handwoven textile, making it a very sustainable, organic collection.