HYDERABAD: My long drive of eight hours from Hyderabad to Hampi in Karnataka was spent in refreshing the history lessons I learnt as a student. The golden era of Krishna Deva Raya unfolded, as did some of the film scenes where he was portrayed as the supreme king and a patron of fine arts. It is said that Telugu literature reached its pinnacle during his time. I grew up knowing that we, Telugu people have always put him on a lofty pedestal and revered him for his contribution to our culture.
As the car approached the stunning landscape with its miraculously balanced and precariously positioned boulders, Orange County - Hampi welcomed us. Merging with the unpolluted, rugged beauty of the Deccan, there stood the latest in the luxury resort chain. Located just 4 km from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Hampi, the grand structure with its stone-paved avenues, vaulted hallways and regal chambers, reflects today, the famed palaces of the magnificent bygone era. That evening’s Power Point presentation by the resort’s historian took me back in time to the marvellous 14th century Vijayanagara Empire. Harihara and Bukka, the founders were supported and inspired by Vidyaranya, a saint at the Sringeri monastery to fight the Muslim invasion of South India. As time passed, the mighty empire extended over the entire South India and Sri Lanka. As the prosperous capital of the largest and most powerful Indian kingdom of its time, Vijayanagara attracted people from all around the world: travellers from far and near, who were mesmerised by the city, sang paeans to its glory.
The next morning, I set out, accompanied by the guide. On the way I saw many small and big temples, tucked away among banana plantations: some in ruins, some quite well preserved. As we climbed the Hemakuta Hill I saw the huge monolithic Ganesha idol and the imposing watchtowers. Several small temples on the hill predate the construction of Vijayanagara as the capital of the empire, some being as early as the 10th century. I sat in one of the ruined temples, the elevated spot giving me a lovely view of the whole place even as the Virupaksha Temple in the foreground made a majestic sight. It is dedicated to Virupaksha, an aspect of Shiva and his consort Parvathi (locally Pampa). Just as we entered the temple, the 30-year-old Lakshmi (temple elephant) was making rounds, dutifully following the mahout, going into every shrine and paying obeisance to the deity with its raised trunk - I found it very cute. There were large troops of monkeys, making mischief and generally having fun, as they always do - I always find it highly amusing to watch them! The sculpture on the temple is exquisite and in fine detail. As it is the only functioning temple, there were many pilgrims as well as tourists. A just wedded couple went past, followed by relatives clicking pictures behind (of course, with their mobile phones!).
Lotus Mahal, also known as Kamal Mahal, situated in the zenana enclosure is indeed a nugget: a two-storeyed symmetrical structure exhibiting a fine example of Indo-Islamic architecture. The multifoil arches give it a lotus-like look: the fine carvings display birds; the delicate artwork fascinates with the still intact Makara Torana (at some places) on the top. The pipeline work above and between the arches proves that the palace was air-cooled at that time. Surrounded by sevants’ quarters, private temples, a rectangular wall with fortifications and watchtowers (to keep an eye on the intruders), the Lotus Mahal occupying the centre stage, glowed in the golden sunset.
Just behind, the set of large stables, beautiful enough to enclose the royal elephants is eye catching with its domes and arched gateways. The area in front of them was a parade ground for the elephants, and for troops. The guards' barracks are located right next to the elephant stables.
After this highly gratifying tour, we walked on the rocks and through the narrow arched passages between the boulders, to reach Tungabhadra River. I took a coracle ride in the serene waters, surrounded by the silent hills. My overwrought mind was stilled and I mused on the amazing architectural skills of our ancestors. Madhav, the young boatman told me about the ruined structures on the riverbank which are still used by pilgrims to camp during festivals.
As though to continue my experience of the royal past, that evening my dinner was arranged in the resort’s Bahamani restaurant. Inspired by the Lotus Mahal, the elegant edifice truly reflects its beauty and spirit. As the melodious notes of Malkauns from the flute wafted in the air, my dinner was made romantic. As I looked down from the lovely arches, the softly lit Lotus Mahal glowed with its reflection caught in the water below. After a warm bath in the Jacuzzi, sinking into the luxurious bed, I slept that night, dreaming of a rendezvous with the Vijayanagara royalty.