HYDERABAD: Travelling in the Philippines, I realised that each region gives a different perspective with its distinct culture. In Luzon, the provinces of Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur surprised me pleasantly: rich heritage structures that stood the test of time and traditions that are still in vogue. Long before the Spaniards came to the Philippines, settlements already existed along the coves in the northwestern part of Luzon. This region was a progressive trading post renowned for its gold mines, familiar to the ancient Japanese, Chinese and Malay traders.
As I journeyed northwards, the jeepneys (initially made from the US military jeeps left over after the Second World War, since been developed into colourful public service transport, ubiquitous throughout the country) got smaller and the tricycles (like tiny auto rickshaws) even tinier. Zaza Santiago, my guide complained jokingly, “Our tricycles are so small, we find it hard to squeeze into them. Especially after shopping, the tomatoes roll out from my bags and no place for more people.”
Zaza picked me up from Playa Tropical Resort Hotel to take me to Vigan, a fascinating town (also a Unesco World Heritage Site) in Ilocos Sur, the second Northernmost place in the Philippines. One of the new seven wonder cities of the world, Vigan is one of those few towns left in the country whose old structures have mostly remained intact, and the place is well known for its cobbled stone streets and the unique architecture - a fusion of Native Philippine and the Colonial Spanish styles. Vigan Heritage Village (Kamestizoan District) is replete with ancestral houses that date back to the 18th century, with ancient tile roofs, massive hardwood floorings, balustrades and azoteas in varying Spanish- Mexican-Chinese architectural designs.
The Bantay Church features both baroque and gothic influenced architecture. The statue of Our Lady of Charity is an old treasure, made of wood and ivory. Its belfry, a few metres away was used as a watchtower for approaching enemies. There was a horse drawn cortege standing in front of the church, with the picture of a deceased lady: it was decorated with white balloons and flowers.
Listening to the sacred music at the funeral service, I joined the line, paid respects to the departed soul, and received the Holy Communion. It didn’t matter to me that the departed was a stranger.
Neither did it matter that I am a staunch Hindu - what mattered to me was respecting a tradition/faith.
A quick look at St Paul cathedral was followed by a visit to Pagburnayan, the traditional earthen jar-making industry in Vigan that was introduced by the Chinese in the 14th century. They were used for fermenting vinegar, wine, salt etc. A buffalo was going around in circles, stamping the clay. The potter turned the wheel and produced some lovely pieces of art. I bought some pots as souvenirs and a paper mache Kalesa, which is a horse drawn carriage, a popular mode of transport.
Syquia Mansion belongs to a wealthy Chinese - Filipino family in Vigan. It was the residence of the former president Elpido Quirino. Turned into a museum, it showcases the lifestyle of the rich and the famous in the early 1900s. The floors are made of huge stone slabs called piedra, which came all the way from the Chinese merchants who used them to weigh down their empty ships before loading in the goods coming from Vigan City.
The opulence of the family is seen through the numerous paintings hanging on their walls, foot-wide hardwood planks, antique furniture, glass chandeliers and draped capiz windows. The whole mansion wraps around a central courtyard found, not on the ground floor, but at the second floor of the house.
After a lovely ride in a Kalesa through the cobbled streets of Vigan, we had lunch at Cafe Uno where the Vice President of Philippines also was expected that day. We had avocado shake, tilapia fish, garlic rice, fried chicken and ‘halo halo’ for dessert which consists of evaporated milk, ice cubes, cheese, lots of sugar, grated coconut, kaong, gelatine etc.
Post lunch we travelled to Ilocos Norte to see the imposing St Augustine Church in Paoay, with its picture perfect façade and the three-storey coral bell tower. The church is famous for its ‘Earthquake Baroque Architecture’ that is an interpretation of the European Baroque adapted to the seismic condition of the country through the use of enormous buttresses - there were 24 in all. A wedding was underway - bridesmaids of all ages fully decked up and eagerly waiting for the ceremony to start. Zaza was keen to show me the Sinking Bell Tower that is located in the busy centre of Laoag City, close to the public market. It is believed that the historic tower is sinking at a rate of an inch a year, though no one is completely sure why.
I headed home the next day, with rich memories of my travel to a country that has so much to offer, and with such a warm heart! (The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)