VIJAYAWADA: On my flight to Taiwan, I dreamt of the snowy Tung flowers showering on me by day and thousands of fireflies glowing in the dark woods by night: a surreal picture I fancied for myself subconsciously. It is the season for both these beauties during April and May. When we touched down in Taipei it was a pleasantly nippy afternoon, a welcome change from the Indian summer. The breeze though cool was windy enough to ruffle the hair and sway the trees. The Tung trees on the hills were in bloom but the white clusters were distant and far away and inaccessible like most dreams.
If you want to get the best out of your Taipei visit, you should see the city from all angles. It is a city steeped in its tradition, respects its history, proud of its culture yet modern in its approach.
An architectural marvel
Taipei 101, one of the most famous skyscrapers, was once the world’s tallest building at 1,667 ft high (from 2004 to 2010), till the Burj Khalifa in Dubai overtook it. The blue-green hue and shape of the building resembles bamboo indigenous to Taiwan, paying tribute to the local Chinese culture. A posh shopping mall occupies the first five floors, selling luxury brands.
The super fast elevator took just 37 seconds to reach from the 5th floor to the observatory on the 89th floor. A video playing on the roof of the elevator during this half-minute showed a spectacular night sky: it was like travelling into space. On the top, the 360-degree panoramic views showed the city enveloped in the glow of a million lights (later, from my hotel room on the 21 st floor – Hotel Amba Songshan, I could see the same lights much closer). We saw the building’s tuned mass damper from close quarters, marvelled at its mechanism and took pictures. It is a large pendulum used for stabilising the tower against movements caused by earthquakes and strong winds. It will swing in the opposite direction of the sway of the tower, thus effectively reducing the sway.
Aesthetics in nationalism
Liberty Square was vibrant with groups of people rehearsing for various upcoming events. Bands played lively music as people moved in rhythmic precision. Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, erected (1980) in memory of General Chiang Kai-shek (former President of the Republic of China) occupies prime space in the Liberty Square that played an important historical role in Taiwan’s transition from one-party rule to modern democracy in the 1990s. The Memorial Hall is white with four sides. It is covered with blue tiles and red accents, echoing the flag of the Republic of China. The roof is blue and octagonal, a shape that picks up the symbolism of the number eight, a number traditionally associated in Asia with abundance and good fortune. Two sets of white stairs, each with 89 steps to represent Chiang’s age at the time of his death, lead to the main entrance. In the main hall is an imposing statue of Chiang Kai-shek. I watched the interesting guard mounting ceremony craning my neck over hundreds of people and their selfie sticks recording the event. Below the hall is a museum documenting Chiang’s life and career, as well as exhibits about Taiwan’s history, pan-Chinese culture and history, and the ROC’s development after moving to Taiwan. In the foreground of this beautiful edifice are two pretty buildings: National Concert Hall (left) and the National Theatre (right). The well-maintained gardens and intricate carvings are quite impressive.
A peek into the past
Strolling in Dadaocheng (Dihua Street) was like walking into antiquity. It gave a taste of the cultural essence of Taipei. A rich mix of East and West, the narrow Dihua Street is lined with beautifully restored historical buildings and stores established more than 100 years ago. In recent years the area has witnessed many old buildings being renovated and opened as cafes and boutiques. Chinese immigrants from the Fujian Province who became rich through trade originally built this diverse area at the end of the 18th century. In the 20th century, it grew to be one of Taiwan’s leading business districts. During that time, stores for things such as tea, dried goods, Chinese herbal medicines, fabrics and the like gathered here and the area became known as Taiwan’s leading wholesale area. Some wealthy traders once built magnificent houses in baroque, Western, modern, and other styles. Here Taiwan’s traditional atmosphere intermingles with European architectural style creating a unique landscape: the arched roof over the sidewalk is a rare sight in Taiwan.
You can try some local cuisines from the vendors in front of Tze Sheng Temple. I tried peanut roll ice cream and almond cookies; roamed in the alleys; came across an elegant couple dressed in traditional attire posing sportively for pictures and enjoyed a cup of coffee in a quaint street house.
Open spaces for leisure activities
Pier 5 is a city park with new bicycle paths, cafes and interesting eateries along the river. It is an ideal place to spend an evening on the riverfront and experience a taste of history. Also a good place for ‘people watching’. I saw a patient mother cleverly handling a difficult child: it was quite amusing.
Serene and Spiritual
Longshan Temple is a pleasing mix of the Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian faiths. Constructed in 1738 near the Danshui River, it originally served as a place of worship and assembly for immigrants from the Fujian Province of China. Over the years, however, it has become the spiritual and social heart of the city and today, along with the traditional shops in its perimeter, exists as a window into Old Taipei. As I entered, a dizzying array of red and gold embellishments, two bronze pillars intricately decorated with spiralling dragons held my attention. The sonorous chants by devotees filled the air. Monks standing in the main hall led the prayers as Guanyin, the goddess of compassion and mercy sat radiating benevolence. Masterfully carved of camphor wood, she sits erect and calm, despite having seen the temple through trying times.
As incense swirled in the air, divination blocks thrown upon the floor echoed through the three halls, and lanterns swung from the ceilings, I
stood mesmerised. I went around the temple, looking at various deities: burning spirit money crackled inside a brass urn located in the courtyard. Fruit and delicacies offered to the deities by worshippers were displayed on long tables. A monk smiled, as I stood puzzled watching people throwing the crescent-shaped wooden blocks. He explained in his soft voice, the divination blocks are known as bwa-bwei, when thrown on the ground in front of the statues hint at answers through the alignment of the blocks. People often seek divine guidance and get answers to life’s problems. I walked back into the busy street as the chants became faint. Many walked with me, with their questions answered, some unanswered and some left hanging in the air.
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at
vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)