Chokers have always played a significant role in the history of jewellery. Worn by ancient civilisations as a means of protection, these neckpieces are among the earliest recorded jewels in history, and whilst their popularity has waxed and waned through the centuries, they have long been representative of power and strength.
In our country, chokers were worn by Rajput women since time immemorial, with the rest of India following suit. In England, during the Victorian era, British royalty developed a fondness for bejewelled chokers set with precious stones and pearls. This filtered down to the general public, who wore brooches and pendants strung on pieces of velvet to emulate their aristocratic sisters.
Today, they are back with a bang. And if you’re in any doubt that chokers are here to stay, check out the new collections launched during Couture Week in Paris. From regal designs that spill down the neckline in a shower of precious stones to sleek, simple neck-huggers, chokers, like ear cuffs, are symbolic of a new era of originality in the world of high jewellery.
Bulgari’s Cinemagia offered the most compelling proof this summer with its stunning pearl and diamond choker. Better known for its bold use of coloured stones, in the seductive diamond cascade choker, Bulgari drapes pearls set in blackened gold down the neckline.
David Morris’ exquisite chokers, which form part of his new Enchanted Isle collection, were inspired by the London jeweller’s holiday home on the Greek island of Mykonos. Among the rarest gems in the world, Morris has collected conch pearls for decades and normally unveils at least one piece of high jewellery a year starring these elusive pearls that are impossible to cultivate. The stand-out piece here is Rhea, set with more than 110 carats of conch pearls.
Returning to the powerful women theme, Louis Vuitton celebrates the medieval heroines who, in a man’s world, carved their own place in history with the new Riders of the Knight high jewellery collection. Shaped like a chain mail throat-protector, the spectacular Le Royaume choker sits alongside chunky medallion necklaces as a symbol of courage and strength—precious armour for today’s warrior women who, like the heroines of old, perceive jewellery as so much more than simple adornment.