People who have been impressed with Hampi, will be awestruck by Lakkundi, a tiny village located 11 kms north east of Gadag on NH-63 towards Hospet (Hampi). Known as ‘Lokki Gundi’, it is a haven for historians, archaeologists, architects and lovers of antiquity. Filled with history, it has over 50 ruined and forgotten, architecturally rich, Hindu temples, Jain Basadis, 101 sacred stepped wells called Kalyani or Pushkarni, museums, and 29 ancient inscriptions from the period of Chalukyas, Kalachuris, Seunas and Hoysalas.
Archaeologists also speak about the presence of an ancient mint. According to M B Salimat, a local merchant, even today people find gold coins when it rains heavily. There is an inscription at Managundi that gives information about the glory of this place in those days. It also mentions the mint. The gold mint was under one ‘Amajashetty’. These coins, according to historians were in circulation in the area that is now called Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.
It is said that originally there were more than hundred temples in Lakkhundi but only 50 have survived the ravages of time. Prominent among them are Bramha Jinalaya, Naganatha Temple, Naneswara Temple, Kashi Vishwanatha Temple, Manikeshwara Temple and Kumbareswara Temple and Doddabassappa temple.
On reaching Lakkundi, I was confronted with the question, ‘where to begin the tour’. Finally I started with the Jain basadi or the Bramha Jinalaya built in the later half of the eleventh century, one of the best examples of temples in this area, built of schist (fine chlorite rocks) instead of sandstone.
The temple was built by Queen Attimabbe, wife of a local chieftain Nagadeva, during the period of Kalyani Chalukya ruler Irivabedanga Satyashraya. It is a fine example of the Karnataka Dravida style of temple construction, a style that evolved during the Kalyani Chalukya period.
It has a five-storied vimana, a complete square from base to the shikara, a closed navaranga in the front along with a spacious Mukha mantapa leading to a open madapa supported by 28 central pillars with intricate carvings. The central bay of the navaranga is a large square with eight smaller ones around it. The central navaranga is supported by four exquisitely carved pillars.
The upper three storeys are more ornamental with very delicate pilaster and lion mask finials.
The carvings are remarkable and intricate and this raises the total height of the vimana considerably. The outer walls are highly decorative with sculptures of Thirtankaras, Yakshas and Yakshis. Delicate carvings of creepers are seen on the doorways. There are also carvings of dancers, musicians and Gajalakshmi on the lintel.
The idol of Lord Brahmadev at this temple is exceptionally beautiful and imposing. The idol is four-faced and carved of the same schist as the temple itself. Lord Brahma’s faces are polished, resulting in an interesting dark-faced contrast to the rest of the idol.
His front hands are holding prayer beads and lotus, and it appears that the two side arms are broken. Brahma’s consorts, Savitri and Gayatri, stand at his feet.
The Garbagriha holds the idol of Vardhamana Mahavira Tirtankara in blackstone with chamara bearers on either side and a triple umbrella above. However, the most remarkable sculpture is that of the four-faced Brahma himself and the name of the temple originates from this.
Many artefacts of Lakkundi are actually stored in the museum found on the temple complex, which is maintained by the Archaeological survey of India.
Photography is banned here. According to professor of history, Dr Sarvesh, the architecture of the Chalukyas of Kalyani is said to be a link between those of the early Chalukyas of Badami and the Hoysalas who succeeded them.
According to the caretaker of the gallery, this Jain temple complex also houses over 250 epigraphs, carvings and statues. Although most of these are damaged, they are still very beautiful and captivating.
It is difficult to cover all the monuments but you should try to visit at least the most prominent ones.
How to Reach
Lakkundi is well connected by road. It can be reached by coming to Gadag or Koppal. There are KSRTC buses from all over Karnataka to Gadag and Koppal. It is 11 km from Gadag and 50 km from Koppal.