A Sacred Place That Bears the Message of Harmony
BENGALURU: Having been born in a Sufi family, I was initiated into the mystical version of Islam by my pir (teacher) in my early teens. One of the rituals that we Sufis indulge in is the zeyarat (visit) of Auliya Allah’s (friends of Allah) dargahs (tomb of a Sufi saint). Amongst the first dargahs that I remember visiting every other Thursday evening with my family was that of Hazrat Tawakkal Mastan Shah Suhrawardi in Cottonpet, which is also the most prominent one in the whole of Bengaluru.
About the origins of this saint, there are many myths. The first one states that his real name was Mirza Baig and that he was a trader of Persian horses, who had come to Bengaluru. Later, he is believed to have renounced all worldly pleasures and devoted his time to pursue the praise of almighty Allah and help those in need.
Another story says that during the time of Nawab Hyder Ali, when the stone fort was being reconstructed, three men namely Hazrat Tipu Mastan, Hazrat Manik Mastan, and Hazrat Tawakkal Mastan, who were probably brothers or pir bhais (disciples of the same saint), came to work in Bengaluru. They worked at the construction site all day as labourers and spent the nights in prayer. These three are believed to have not taken any money for their work.
Nawab Hyder Ali was surprised to hear that these men always disappeared on pay day, and asked his khiledar to look into their whereabouts. The khiledar, Banke Nawab Ibrahim Khan, tracked them down and saw them enter a mosque in Kumbarpet after the day’s work. But when he followed them into the mosque, he could not see them there. He only saw three parts of a human body that were guarded by two dogs. This made him realise that the men were not mere mortals, but saints. He then narrated the incident to the Nawab.
It is even believed that with the blessings of Hazrat Tipu Mastan, Nawab Hyder Ali had a son, whom he named Tipu Sultan as a mark of respect to the saint.
Hazrat Manik Mastan’s dargah is on Avenue Road, while Hazrat Tipu Mastan’s dargah is in Arcot. Tawakkal Mastan stayed back in Cottonpet, which was then a barren land full of thorny shrubs. When Nawab Hyder Ali visited the place and wished to present the saint with worldly gifts, they were refused. Instead, the saint asked the Nawab to build a mosque there.
The construction work on the mosque started in 1777 and was completed in 1783 by Tipu Sultan. A stone inscription on the tomb states that Hazrat Tawakkal Mastan preached Islam and died in 1777. This heritage mosque was demolished a decade ago to build a bigger one.
The ceiling of the dargah had floral motifs, which are now covered with modern mirror work. In one of his books, renowned Persian historian Kirmani calls Hazrat Tawakkal Mastan a murid (a committed follower) of the famous Sufi saint Baba Fakhruddin Suharwardy of Penukonda.
This dargah promotes communal harmony as members of all faiths are free to enter it. An annual karaga procession makes a customary halt here as a mark of respect to the saint, who had once pulled a karaga carrier with a string after his feet refused to move from a spot in front of the place. Amitabh Bachchan visited this dargah after having recovered from an injury he sustained during the making of Coolie. The family members of the Kannada actor Rajkumar are regular visitors here, as is music director A R Rahman.
Praying at the mosque adjacent to the dargah on the 26th day of Ramzan has been a tradition amongst the devotees of this saint, followed by a zeyarat to his dargah. During Ramzan, sehri (breakfast) arrangements are also made for those who fast.
On the 21st day of Ramzan on the occasion of the Urs of Imam Ali, the Sajada (caretaker) makes arrangements for a lavish meal at his residence opposite the mosque. Other important occasions are on the 19th day of Safar, for the Urs ceremony and the 10th day of Muharram for the Imam Hussein Tazia procession and fire walking rituals. Other major events are Eid Milad celebrations on the 12th day of the Islamic month of Rabi’ al-awwal and Fateha of Imam Jafar Sadiq on the 22nd of Rajab, when special halwa puris are prepared as niyaz (offering).
The dargah also runs a madrasa, a choultry and a school.
(Mansoor Ali is an architect)
About the dargah
A myth states that Hazrat Tawakkal Mastan Shah Suhrawardi’s real name was Mirza Baig and that he was a trader of Persian horses.
Amitabh Bachchan visited this dargah after having recovered from an injury he sustained during the making of Coolie. The construction work on the mosque started in 1777 and was completed in 1783 by Tipu Sultan.