BENGALURU: In Bengaluru, a city where modernity mingles with tradition, regional South Indian cuisine remains an enduring favourite. This rustic, flavourful fare is more than just food — it’s a testament to the cultural and agricultural richness of the region. As contemporary food trends rise, these delicacies continue to hold their own, offering a culinary experience that speaks deeply to local traditions. Here, we explore three establishments that embody the richness of South Indian cuisine, blending heritage with the refined palates of Bengaluru’s discerning food lovers.
Ponram, a 50-year-old institution from Dindigul, has made its mark in Koramangala with its celebrated biryani and regional specialities. Known for its dedication to authenticity, Ponram ensures that each plate of biryani, made from tender sheep and cooked in small batches, is served within 50 minutes of preparation. The use of locally-sourced spices, including coriander from Virudhunagar, pepper from Thandikudi, and cardamom from Bodi, guarantees that every dish is bursting with fresh flavours.
“Our 160-seater outlet in Koramangala is designed with the local clientele in mind, ensuring comfort and an authentic dining experience,” says Prabakaran R, managing director of Ponram. “The flavours you savour here are the same as those enjoyed in Dindigul.”
Beyond their famed biryani, Ponram’s menu features mutton chukka, country chicken, and mutton egg varuval, alongside traditional offal dishes like liver and spleen. The restaurant’s commitment to purity is evident in its self-operated dairy farms, ensuring the quality of ingredients such as ghee, curd, and even jackfruit ice cream.
Naati Sthala, founded by Kiran, Rajkumar, and chef Vikram, honours the traditional non-vegetarian cuisines of Karnataka. With a focus on simple, yet passionately prepared dishes, Naati Sthala’s menu includes standout options like mutton kheema gojju, slow-cooked minced lamb served with idli or dosae, mutton kaal soup, an overnight-cooked lamb trotter broth, and nati koli bassaru, a deconstructed country chicken and lentil curry, best enjoyed with ragi balls or plain rice.
“Our philosophy is simple: serve honest food with no frills. We slow-cook every dish in small batches, ensuring freshness,” explains chef Vikram. Naati Sthala, which is open Tuesday to Sunday, also caters to vegetarian diners with dishes such as averekalu kurma and mushroom biryani, proving that the restaurant’s appeal extends beyond meat lovers.
Karnivore Kitchen, the brainchild of Kalyan Gopalakrishna, offers a deeply personal take on naati cuisine, rooted in his childhood memories of cooking mutton fry and shopping for meat with his father. This home-based venture serves premium cuts of Bannur lamb and pork, prepared using traditional recipes passed down through generations.
“In old Bengaluru naati cuisine, the treatment of ingredients is paramount,” says Kalyan. “Each cut of meat is used specifically for different dishes, ensuring the flavours are optimised.” Signature offerings include Bannur mutton pepper fry, Bannur lamb organs fry, and the richly-flavoured Bannur mutton palav, cooked with basmati rice, coconut mylk, and mutton stock.
Karnivore Kitchen’s dedication to quality has won it a loyal following, bringing the authentic flavours of old Bengaluru into several homes. Kalyan’s experience as a cook, which began at the age of 13, combined with his travels, has allowed him to blend global influences with regional traditions, making Karnivore Kitchen an intersection of heritage and innovation.
Aslam Gafoor
(The writer is a Bengaluru-based hospitality professional, food lover, and travel enthusiast)