BENGALURU: Easter ranks as the most significant festival in the Christian calendar, commemorating the resurrection of Jesus Christ. The celebration officially kicks off with Holy Week, but it’s after Maundy Thursday that the fervour truly intensifies. Before exploring the numerous traditions linked to Easter, it’s essential to understand its origins.
History
In 325 AD, Roman Emperor Constantine and the Council of Nicaea decreed that Easter should always occur on a Sunday. As Christianity spread throughout Europe, it absorbed various pagan practices. The name Easter itself is thought to derive from Eastre, a goddess associated with fertility and spring.
The tradition of Easter eggs appeared in the 13th century, symbolising Christ’s emergence from the tomb, with the yolk inside representing life. Initially, these eggs were painted red to symbolise the blood Christ shed on the cross. Activities like egg rolling also gained popularity, with the US’s White House lawn hosting such events as early as the 1850s.
Later, the concept of Easter Bunnies too hopped onto the scene as rabbits were traditionally associated with fertility and new life. While these traditions enthused the children, the adults indulged in the humble Easter bread and hot cross buns.
Traditions in India
In India, these practices were not initially adopted. Historian and writer Varghese Angamaly explains that despite common belief, Easter celebrations did not start in the country with the arrival of St Thomas in 52 CE but became prominent after the Portuguese arrived in 1498, introducing more elaborate observances.
“Easter was not observed immediately after the arrival of St Thomas. It was much later. Before the colonial rule, the Lent was followed most strenuously. It was after 1498, with the arrival of the Portuguese, that Easter celebrations became flamboyant,” Varghese says.
On food
This is noticeable in the food too. “Before the colonial rule, Christian families in Kerala celebrated Easter with snacks such as achappam and kumbalappam. Appam was an integral part of the festival. After the arrival of the Portuguese, vindaloo became an Easter staple,” says Deepa G, assistant professor of history at CAS College, Kannur.
Varghese seconds the significance of appam. “During Pesaha or Maundy Thursday, appam like Indri appam, commonly seen in areas like Thrissur, is made with rice flour and uzhunnu. It is steamed and made into a rice cake. The second variety called Kalthappam, popular in central Travancore regions
like Ernakulam, Kottayam and Pala, is made with rice flour, uzhunnu (less quantity) and coconut bits. Both the appams will be decorated with a ‘kurthola’ shaped as a cross on Maundy Thursday,” he says.
On the day, the family members gather at the home of the eldest member, who cuts the rice cake and distributes the pieces. Pesaha paal, a concoction of coconut milk, jaggery and sugar, will also be served.
Food traditions
Easter Sunday in Kerala is celebrated with a lavish feast after morning mass, with regional variations in the menu.
For writer and artist Tanya Abraham, who hails from a Latin Catholic family in Fort Kochi, taking part in Easter brunch at her grandmother’s place is special. “Though now the celebrations are not as flamboyant, I remember the table being full. There would be all kinds of meat such as pork vindaloo, duck roast, ham, chicken roast, beef (a not-so-spicy beef curry), fresh bread, and sometimes even mulled wine. Our family still upholds this tradition,” says Tanya.
Kochi’s Luso-Indian families’ way of easter celebrations contains mainly pork and beef. Tsarina Abrao Vacha, who hails from a Luso family, reminisces about the preparation on Easter morning. “We don’t have the typical palappam or kallappam. We have ‘renda’. It has a light brown colour on the border and is soft in the middle. It will be paired with either beef stew or pork stew. The meat has to have bone and the curry will have cabbage, raisins and roasted cashews,” she says.
Tsarina also points out Fort Kochi’s hyper-local vinegar-laden mustard condiment called musaadth. The dish is made by grinding mustard, garlic, ginger, and seasonings with vinegar. “It is paired with pork. This is a single dish. After this, the lunch will consist of rice, pork vindaloo and duck roast. A cucumber salad with salt, sugar, vinegar, onion, squeezed and mixed with coconut milk, and drizzled with coconut oil, makes the Easter lunch complete,” Tsarina says.
Thrissur gives importance to pork, fish, beef and chicken. Nisha Joji, a resident here, says most houses in Thrissur break lent with Vattayappam and beef curry. “Churches would be providing this. After that breakfast will be appam and mutton stew. For lunch, rice with pork, beef, prawns, and manga curry are preferred,” she adds.
In Alappuzha, Fish Molee made with Karimeen (pearl spot) or paal-pizhinja duck curry with bread is a must for breakfast, says local resident Anuja Anto. Whereas in Angamaly, restaurant owner, Shiji Shajan talks about chicken taking centre-stage for breakfasts. “In most houses, the spread would be appam, chicken paal pizhinja curry and vattayappam,” she says.
Shiji also highlights the importance of fish paal pizhinja curry using eri fish, added with mango. “This is a staple for lunch. In addition to this, pork koorka and pork kaya is a must-have side dish,” she adds.
“Since the 50 days lent is all about abstaining from all kinds of meat, egg, milk, and fish, we welcome Easter Sunday with a heavy breakfast. Appam, chicken stew, pork bake and banana fritters will be common items on the table. We also pop champagne after breakfast. Lunch would be just one dish. The most preferred is mutton biryani,” says Kottayam native Sareeka John.
Laly Sunil of Wayanad says the most important food of the day would be kallappam and pork roast. “Kozhiyum pidiyum is another option. Lunch is not set in a grand manner. It’ll be either biryani or fried rice. If meals are opted for, then fish is a must. Usually, it is pomfret and king fish that’s used,” she says.
DUCK ROAST
Ingredients
Duck: 2 kg skin on, cut into 8 pieces
Grind to a paste:
Shallots: 20
Garlic cloves: 6
Ginger: 1/2 inch piece
Green chilli (de-seeded): 2
Turmeric: 1/4 tsp
Pepper: 3 tbsp
Cinnamon powder: 1/2 tsp
Clove powder: 1/4 tsp
Jeera : 1/4 tsp
Mint leaves: 15
Lime juice: 3 tbsp
Ghee : 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Coconut oil: 1 cup
Fried onions, cashews, raisins and potato wedges to serve
Method
Marinate the duck with the ground ingredients for 6 hours or overnight in the fridge. Heat the coconut oil in a wide pan. Arrange the duck in a single layer, skin side down and brown well on both sides. Pour about a cup of hot water, and shake the pan well. Then cover and cook on a low flame – this could take an hour or more – till the meat is well cooked. This is a semi-dry dish, so evaporate the gravy till just enough remains to coat the pieces. Tip out the excess oil. Garnish with the fried onions, cashews, raisins, potato wedges and serve.
Easter bread
Ingredients
Milk: 215 ml
Butter unsalted: 60 g
Brown sugar: 40 g
Instant yeast: 4 g
Eggs: 2
Salt: 8 gm
Refined wheat flour: 400 gm
Cinnamon powder: 1 tsp
Clove powder: 1/4 tsp
Nutmeg powder: 1/4 tsp
Turmeric: 1/2 tsp
Raisins: 60 gm
Cashews, chopped: 60 gm
Egg yolk: 1
Method
Heat the milk. Add butter & brown sugar, mix well and maintain a lukewarm temperature. Now whisk in the eggs, yeast, and salt. In a mixing bowl add flour, spice powders & turmeric. Pour the liquid mixture and knead in a mixer or by hand for about 10 minutes till smooth. Now add the raisins & cashews and knead for 2 more minutes. Put the dough into an oiled bowl, cover and let rise for about 75 minutes. Punch down and shape as desired. Leave to rise again for another 40 minutes. Mix egg yolk with a tablespoon of water and brush over the dough. Bake at 190°C for about 25 minutes till the top turns golden.