Whether you’re an avid fashion enthusiast with an eye for the latest collections or not into fashion at all, it’s impossible not to have seen or heard of Giorgio Armani’s work. From the iconic oversized suit Julia Roberts rocked in the ’90s, Richard Gere’s casual and charismatic look in American Gigolo, or the tailored suits worn by gangsters in Goodfellas, Armani’s hand is all over popular
culture. With his recent passing, at the age of 91, here’s a look at the legacy Armani leaves behind.
Reimagining classics
Since storming onto the Italian fashion scene in 1975 with his label, Armani has come to be known for his minimalist designs that play with structure. As fashion designer Mayank Modi explains, “A jacket was considered to be for formal suits and occasions, but he completely transformed it for both men and women, making it look like it can also be worn in a more casual way. Suits with slim Italian cuts and a sharp, tapered look were popularised by him,” he adds, “Armani’s major contribution was that he provided the perfect fit. He played with textiles and texture, rather than embellishments and even a simple Jacquard outfit would look well structured and stylish.”
Styling The Silver Screen
Armani is also known for his beautiful red carpet gowns and tailored pieces for women. “If we look at red carpets, Julia Roberts wearing an Armani suit is an iconic look, along with a beautiful skirt that Diane Keaton wore. More recently, I really loved a feather and sequins gown that Lupita Nyong’o wore to the Oscars,” says fashion designer Michelle Salins. She adds, “With the minimal dressing and relaxed, elegant power suits, everything about his clothing was so connected with structure and power. Once you wear it, it will immediately elevate your confidence.”
Armani has also been the mastermind behind several looks in films that landed actors on the red carpet. Richard Gere’s tan trench coat in American Gigolo remains one of the most iconic fashion moments in cinema, a look that continues to be remembered. Armani’s suits with sharp tailoring and clean lines have graced numerous cult films such as The Wolf of Wall Street, Goodfellas, Inglourious Basterds and The Dark Knight. His frequent collaborations with Martin Scorsese further cemented his role in shaping the visual language of Hollywood style.
“Apart from inventing red carpet dressing, a common practice today across the world, he had styled for over 100 eternal Hollywood films that didn’t just etch the world of cinema, but fashion too,” notes Sounak Sen Barat, the founder of the bespoke fashion brand House of Three, picking looks from Casino as his favourites. “If I had to choose one, that would be his work on the costumes of every character in Scorsese’s Casino. That left a profound impact on both the worlds of cinema and fashion. That’s what makes history,” he says, adding, “Armani taught the world how to dress. He is the Bible you refer to in tough times. His career, contributions, persona, quiet enigma, all exude certain emotions – stability, security, reliability, longevity, strength and elegance seamlessly intertwined.”
Indian Inspirations
In 1994, Armani toured India and was reportedly inspired by the textures, textiles and traditional crafts here. Salins explains, “He was so inspired that he started employing Indian craftsmen and invited them over to Italy. I think what he picked up more was what we were doing with beads and sequins and adapted those into his designs with a modern outlook.”
She points his 2019 capsule collection inspired by the Indian achkan, saying, “He launched it exclusively for India, but the palettes he had used were so non-Indian. We are used to jewel tones, but he had a very muted, restrained palette combining both his style and Indian culture.”
Jayanthi Ballal, founder of Mysore Fashion Week, points out that Indian celebs, too, have sported Armani and have close bonds with the brand. Aishwarya Rai often wore Armani on the Cannes red carpet and was one of the select guests invited to the brand’s 40th anniversary celebrations in 2015. “He’s a strong influence in the Indian market and has been a red carpet favourite of Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Deepika Padukone, Kareena Kapoor, Shah Rukh Khan and Ranveer Singh. Recently, Isha Ambani wore a custom-made lavender coloured satin Armani suit,” shares Ballal.