CHENNAI: Two years after its opening in Chennai, Zameendar restaurant, though titled ‘multi-cuisine’, still prides itself to be predominantly Andhra Pradesh inclined. The restaurant's menu, for instance has a separate section for 'Andhra cuisine' and 'Hyderabadi cuisine', besides everything else that falls under the gambit of 'South Indian'. Adding some spice to the chilly festive weeks of December, the restaurant is now holding a specialty Nellore food festival, offering some of the most ancient delicacies of this region.
SR Arumugham, Manager, Administration and Public Relations, is quick to explain the significance of Nellore cuisine and says, “It’s the place that’s familiar to everyone and boasts of recipes that have been passed over generations.” One such delicacy is the Chettamma dosa. Unlike the better known ‘paper dosa’, Chettamma dosa is low on oil, is smaller, and is crispier in the centre and softer on the sides. The Gummadi Pondu Chaaru (pumpkin soup), though meant to be an appetizer, is watery, and is unnecessarily high on spice and salt; the idea of ‘spice’ attached to Andhra cuisine seems to be taken way too seriously here.
Soup varieties for non-vegetarians include Kodi Chaaru (a thin chicken extract with spices) and Pottelu Yemukula chaaru (a mild mutton extract with a blend of spices).
The Junnu Mukkala Mirapakaya Vepudu from the starter menu is just a spicier, oilier version of Chilli Paneer.
The paneer is soft and wellcooked, but it’s not too late before you realise that it’s an overdose of oil that contributes to that taste. From the main course, the Noone Vankaya Masala (a spicy brinjal dish) is a treat and apparently a traditional Nellore delicacy. It goes perfectly well with both the dosa and rice varieties. Meat varieties include Kodi Gongura Vepudu and Kodi Pulusu, whivh are must-tries.
The dessert, carrot halwa with ice cream, is a signature Zameendar dish and a great way to conclude the meal.
The festival is on at Zameendar, Block No-112 & 113, 4th Avenue, Shanthi Colony, Anna Nagar, till December 27.