CHENNAI: I was a resident of Parangimalai or St.Thomas Mount of Yonder in the 1970s and 80s. But, I never had the opportunity to visit the shrine of ‘Öur Lady of Expectation’ Mother Mary on St.Thomas Mount in those 20 years.
It was with great curiosity and verve that I ventured to visit the shrine a few days ago. My friend, Dr Devi took me up the hill and showed me around the shrine. I came back with loaded with thoughts of St Thomas the Apostle and also the diversity of religion in India, particularly in Madras then and Chennai, now.
Saint Thomas was born in the 1st Century AD in Galilee, now in Israel. According to Syrian Christian tradition, he was allegedly killed at St.Thomas Mount, in 72 AD and his body was interred in Malayapore, now called Mylapore. Ephrem, the Syrian, states that the Apostle was martyred in India and that his relics were taken then to Edessa. This is the earliest known record of his martyrdom. The last bit of his bone kept in the crypt of St.Thomas Cathedral, which was also taken to Rome to safeguard it, around 40 years ago.
A flight of 160 steps leads up to the summit of St.Thomas Mount. A shrine dedicated to Mother Mary was built in 1523 atop the mount. The altar of this shrine was built on the spot where St. Thomas’ death was believed to have occurred. At the northern foot of the mount, is a gateway of four impressive arches surmounted by a cross bearing the inscription dated 1547. There are 14 stations of the cross erected all through the way up to the summit.
As you enter the shrine, your attention is drawn to the footpath cobbled with the tablet describing when, where, and how St Thomas, the Apostle, came to be. On the side walls of the shrine, you see a sculpted piece of art portraying how St Thomas was killed by a native Indian carrying a lance. As you move into the shrine, you cannot but experience the quietude and peace permeating the entire place. You walk about five feet before you reach the altar. A huge ornate and decorated arch welcomes you to catch a glimpse of the ‘Bleeding cross of St.Thomas’.
It is believed that this cross bled constantly till 200 years ago indicating that St Thomas was killed and bleeding till he died here. On one side, adjacent to this arch, is a painting of ‘Mary Mother of God’, believed to have been painted by Saint Luke in 50 AD. On the other side is a picture of St Thomas being killed with a lance titled ‘The Holy Place of Martyrdom of St.Thomas’. Below this painting and along the walls near the ornate arch are glass shelves carrying relics of the 12 Apostles. There are also details of all the 12 Apostles with their pictures covering another side wall.
You walk out of the shrine to realise that there is another chapel built beside it. The motif of the ‘Last Supper’ is etched on its panel above the entrance. The scene is depicted so well, and the contours and ups and downs of the picture are so well done, that you almost believe that you are in the scene. As you exit the chapel and go across the shrine to the open and peep out, you get the most beautiful and panoramic view of Chennai city.
Who was St Thomas?
Thomas the Apostle was one of the Twelve Apostles of Jesus, according to the New Testament. He is informally referred to as ‘Doubting Thomas’ because he doubted Jesus' resurrection. However, it was followed later by his confession of faith, ‘My Lord and my God’, on seeing Jesus' wounded body.
(The writer is the wife of K Srinivasan, Assistant Commissioner — GST)