CHENNAI: Centuries-old buildings, houses interspersed with lane systems and iconic landmarks dot the suburb of Aminjikarai, which has more to flaunt than its flower and vegetable markets. As a part of Madras Day celebrations, Thirupurasundari Sevvel from Nam Veedu Nam Oor Nam Kadhai conducted a walk to show us Aminjikarai in a new light.
“It was known as Amaindakarai also because it was located on the banks of Cooum river. However, now it has become Aminjikarai. We often associate this area with slums or anything local in pop culture, but there’s more to it in the pages of Madras’s history. It is one of the oldest neighbourhoods. Aminjikarai was annexed to Madras district in 1946. Part of Aminjikarai and Periyakudal became Shenoy Nagar in the 1950s and part of Aminjikarai and Naduvakkarai became Anna Nagar for development,” said Thirupurasundari.
Most cities and their suburbs have landmarks that become reference points. But over time, newer landmarks emerge, making the older ones redundant. Whether it would be safe to blame it on commercialisation is rhetorical. Lakshmi Talkies is one example. Started in the 1940s, it was one of the few theatres in the west zone of Madras. Those days, watching classics featuring popular heroes on a big screen was a reason to celebrate in the neighbourhood.
Lakshmi Talkies and Grand Theatre near Anna Nagar roundabout were the well-known theatres in the west zone of Madras. Residents here often recall memories of watching films and continue to refer to this as a hot spot. One of the roads near Shenoy Nagar is named after Lakshmi Talkies. With time, like several single-screen theatres, this too shut its doors. A marriage hall now stands on the same ground after this theatre died three years back.
We enter one of the inter-connected streets that lead to two temples housed in the locality. One is Ekambareswar, which is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the other is Prasanna Varadaraja Perumal, where Lord Vishnu resides. Fragrant garlands and lamps are stacked on stands for devotees. “There are about 40-60 cows that go to
Metha Nagar in the morning and come back late in the evening. They rest near the temples. After sunrise, people milk them and they’re again let loose to graze. The corridors inside the temple are used as a tuition centre for children and also to serve food since this is the only open space in the locality. People of different communities live harmoniously. Most of the shops here are owned by Muslims, and they know what kind of flowers go for different rituals,” said Thirupurasundari.
Some of the ancient buildings continue to line the temple vicinity. As if juxtaposing the marriage of old and new, the recently built houses have a courtyard that resembles the Chettinadu style of construction in Karaikudi households.
“Comparatively, these houses have many functional courtyards. One near the kitchen with a well, one at the backside to dry clothes, and one at the front to accommodate guests. There are about 80-90 houses of a similar pattern. There were brick kilns here earlier. The houses are made of lime plaster, have oxidised flooring, and Madras terrace roofing that adjusts to weather conditions and are acoustically adaptable. There’s enough ventilation inside the houses too,” she said.
Every fourth house in the area is separated by a gully that culminates at the banks of Cooum. This prevents water stagnation. There are roughly 62 gullies in Aminjikarai, which are not only meant for commuting but are also used as a shared space for neighbours to interact in the evenings and to park their vehicles. They decorate the space with kolams during festivals. Alongside, this area has eight sound services. These are bands that play for wedding and funeral processions. There are also paper recycle shops.
There are many rooms for rent in the locality as the rates are cheaper here.
Though some of the old buildings have been demolished and the lanes have become commercialised with multiple small-scale shops, Aminjikarai still retains its old charm and has stories to tell.