CHENNAI: Carriages under the glow of red and orange lighting, ornate with festive umbrellas and closed golden pots, set the scene for the Lucknowi Food Festival at Courtyard by Marriott. Bringing the cuisine to the city, in all of its majestic authenticity is chef Pranjal, executive chef at Courtyard by Marriott and chef Parvez Qureshi, a true-bred Lucknowi himself. “Lucknowi cuisine is all about slow-cooking,” chef Parvez tells us. “We allow the meat to braise and cook in a medley of spices, at low temperatures, for extended periods. I recommend that when you lift the cloches at the buffet table, take a moment to let the steam hit you,” he adds. And so I do. Surprisingly, it’s a fitting preview of the food itself — intensely aromatic and piping hot!
Starting strong, we begin with a bowl of paya shorba, and a side plate loaded the murgh nawabi tikka and the Lucknowi paneer tikka. A soup made with lamb trotters; the paya sorba is creamy and balanced by a subtle hint of spice, only made better by dipping the flatbread-like bhakarkhani into it. The murgh nawabi tikka and the Lucknowi paneer tikka are bland, with similar taste notes, but the softness of the chicken and paneer is laudable. The deghi mirch ke parche, browned in the oven with a tangy spice rub, oddly reminds me of chicken schnitzel, albeit a tasty one.
Undoubtedly, decadent meaty kebabs form an essential part of Lucknow’s fame, but this festival menu would be nowhere near complete without the much-chronicled and talked about galouti kebab. A take on the classic minced lamb galouti kebabs, the buffet features a live-kebab station with mushroom galouti kebabs to die for. Seated on tiny tawa parottas, the melt-in-your-mouth kebabs, topped with a generous spoonful of the spicy onion salad and a drizzle of mint chutney makes each bite, a delightful flavour explosion in your mouth. And, just when you think it can’t get any better, it does. Like a big, rich and warm hug, the nihari gosht, a traditional Awadhi dish, is the definition of hearty with its succulent chunks of mutton in a smooth stew. At such a refined affair, it is a test of self-control not to pick the plate right up and have a good lick.
Another Awadhi culinary treasure is the dum pukht awadhi chicken biriyani. Surprisingly, it is not overpowered by aromatics and maintains a mild flavour profile with a slight hint of smokiness. The taste of the vegetarian version is not much different, except with a generous helping of vegetables mixed in with the rice. The shahi sherbet, quite reminiscent of a light berry drink, is the perfect pairing for the heavy Lucknowi cuisine. A few sips between every dish cleanses the palate before another assault of flavour. But if you still have room for dessert, as we always do, the classic phirni is a satisfying end to a meal. And indeed, it is a meal fit for royalty.
The Lucknowi Food Festival is now available only for dinner, 7 pm to 11 pm, at the Paprika Café, Courtyard by Marriott, until January 29. Priced at `1,950. For reservations and further details, contact: 7550090053 /9150865003