CHENNAI: On the streets of Chennai, you may not realise when you go past an architectural masterpiece in the style of art deco. Sprinkled around the city in varied forms hotels, residences, commercial spaces, theatres — art deco architecture is woven into the city’s identity.
In a talk called ‘Discovering Deco in India: A Tale of Three Cities – Delhi, Madras & Hyderabad’ by Art Deco Mumbai trust (@artdecomumbai), architect Prathyaksha Krishna Prasad, founder of Art Deco Madras (@artdecomadras) and The Heritage Art Collective, enlightened the listeners on the relationship of the style and the city. The talk also featured Geetanjali Sayal (@decoindelhi) for a discussion about Delhi and Nitya Gonnakuti (@artdecohyderabad), who spoke of Hyderabad.
The boom of art deco architecture was witnessed between the 1920s to 1950s in Madras. For Indian architects and the elite, it was an opportunity to move away from the Indo-Saracenic architecture of the colonial city and towards something more modern. “Art Deco acted as a transition from a predominantly colonial city to a modern one. It was the bridge. And with the advent of movies and other cultural phenomena, art deco paved the way to become a part of the society in many walks of life,” said Prathyaksha.
Elements of art deco can be seen in several structures in the city, many showcasing similar details. Several buildings flaunted the Madras roof and there was excessive use of red oxide flooring combined with terrazzo flooring. Though the flooring options were seen throughout the country, Prathyaksha mentioned that they were ubiquitous in the southern part of India.
Unfortunately, the city is losing its heritage of the style as historically important buildings get renovated or torn apart, she pointed out. Many buildings that Prathyaksha went on to talk about have already become a faded memory of our heritage. “There is a pressing need for development, and people want to let go of their properties. I think that stands true for all cities. That’s when it occurred to me that this style has to be talked about more so that people can understand its historical importance in the transition of the city,” she added.
In an attempt to maintain the conversation, she participated in a Travelling Journal with Nam Veedu Nam Oor Nam Kadhai, where her spread was dedicated to the art deco style, and Instagram live sessions, in which she spoke of the vernacular elements in art deco. Her future projects include an art deco map of Madras and virtual tours of buildings that no longer exist. After a discussion about the basics of art deco in the city, she went on to illustrate her research through pictures of varied typologies in the city that contain elements of art deco.
Residential buildings
Unlike Mumbai where apartments flaunt art deco architecture, Chennai contains more bungalows in this style. They are generally present in affluent, major areas of the city such as Nungambakkam, Aminjikarai, Shenoy Nagar etc. This bungalow’s gate is an example of tropical deco style.
Royapettah Clock Tower
One of the oldest examples of art deco architecture in the city, the structure was constructed in the late 1920s. Pure to its architecture, there is very little variation in the geometrical design except for the various layers that can be seen.
Entrance Archways
There is substantial evidence of art deco elements in entrance archways such as Darwin’s Gate in Madras Zoo and Dharmaprakash Hall. An iconic example is the now-demolished entrance of Oceanic Hotel. Using typical art deco style, the essence of the sea was brought about, also paying a tribute to the hotel name.
Residences turned into hospitals
When researching, Prathyaksha came across residences that functioned as hospitals and nursing homes decades ago, and have been handled by 2-3 generations since. Ramarao Polyclinic was built by the current owner’s grandfather, and was one of the few hospitals that provided X-ray facilities for free or at low costs. As development ensues around them, owners are feeling pressured to let go of the site. Another such clinic in T Nagar, showcases distinct use of teak, traditional south Indian window patterns, grills following curvature and symmetry.
Madras Flying Club
Now operating in Tiruchy, the Madras Flying Club was Inaugurated in 1930. It was the typical example of the streamlined style with curved edges with an added watchtower in the centre of the building.
Residential structures turned commercial
There are a multitude of residential structures in the city, the lower levels of which were eventually turned into spaces for commercial activities. These are mostly found in the George Town area, affluent pockets such as Triplicane and Mylapore or settlements around temples.
Theatres
Several theatres of such style, unfortunately, no longer exist. The Casino theatre has been given a facelift at the cost of its art deco architecture. Such buildings were scattered throughout the Madras Presidency in areas that are now in Chettinad or Coimbatore. One art deco building that still stands strong is Srinivasa Theatre in Mambalam, with its textured stone cladding and unique windows.
Hotels
The Dasaprakash Hotel was the structure that piqued Prathyaksha’s interest in the art deco of Chennai. The original structure was an interesting mix of textures, colours and patterns. Tropical and nautical elements along with its interiors — woods in a gamut of shades, embossed nameplates, a two-way stairway, porthole windows, symbolic display of travel and motion through elements — made it the example of art deco style in Chennai. However, the same was renovated as a complex over a decade ago.
Institutional buildings
Some of the prominent constructions that show elements of art deco are Bank of Mysore building (now occupied by the State Bank of India), Bombay Mutual, and Oriental Insurance. The latter is one of the oldest buildings in this style. Indian influences are evident in these buildings that were introduced to bring about the Indo-Deco style. The buildings of Bank of Mysore and Oriental Insurance have elements of Rajasthani architecture — jharokhas and brackets along the eyebrows.