An edifice of endurance
CHENNAI: There are a plenty of reasons to celebrate a historical monument that has stood the test of time and weathered many a storm. The St Mary’s Armenian Church on Armenian Street is one such fine example of what the city has got to cherish and preserve. Ask what’s striking about the magnificent structure and most Chennaiites would instantly point to its serene ambience, quaint facade, lush green and well-kept lawns, rustic interiors, its age-old architectural charm and a lot more. But, for the close-knit Armenian community in the city, it’s more of a home than a mere heritage site. For every Sunday, when its belfry reverberates with the rousing call of its six bells — each with its own origin story — at 9.30 am, it’s a reminder of the city’s historical connection with the faraway land of Armenia.
A gathering to remember
Built in 1712 as a simple wooden structure that was later reconstructed in 1772, the building stands as a testimony to the glorious past of Armenians and their rich contributions to the city. On Sunday, the church held its annual Mass after two years and the event witnessed the presence of Armenian families from Kolkata and Chennai. It was the pandemic that put paid to what was otherwise a regular annual affair, begins Victoria Stephen, the secretary of Armenian Church Association. “A few members and priests from Kolkata would fly down to Chennai to take part in the activities. I’ve been to Chennai a couple of times to attend the service and I’m hoping to come next year. Unlike Kolkata, the community here is dwindling every year.”
This year’s two-hour service was conducted by three priests from Kolkata. Ashken, one of the few Armenians from Chennai, attended the mass with her family. “It’s been over seven years since I moved to Chennai. I ensure I visit the church at least twice a month. Although there are other churches we go to, this feels like home. Presently, there are only around four Armenians in Chennai. We get together for the Mass, on the day of our Christmas that falls on January 6, and on the death anniversary of Rev Haruthyun Shmvonian,” she narrates while distributing her homemade Gata (a popular Armenian pastry) to fellow members. The Anna Nagar resident teaches Russian at the Russian Cultural Centre.
With the church playing such an integral part in their social relationships, it was no wonder that people from near and far showed up for the event. That the church held no sign of the recent torrential downpour — in terms of water-logging within the property — certainly came as a welcome surprise. Thanks to caretakers Jude Johnson and Lorraine Alexander who toil all day, along with two sweepers and two watchmen, to keep the surroundings at its best. “Lorraine moved here in 2004 and I came here five years ago. This place has withstood all kinds of natural calamities. It’s open to the public on all days from 9 am to 2.30 pm but photographs are not permitted. I usually walk people around the place and explain the history behind (different features). The church activities are planned by the Armenian Association in Kolkata,” shares Jude, as he walks me around the garden where over 350 Armenians have been laid to rest. The courtyard houses Rev Haruthiun Shmvonian, the editor and founder of Azdarar, the first Armenian journal that was published in Madras in 1794. There’s also an epitaph in the memory of Coja Petrus Uscan, an influential Armenian merchant, installed on the wall.
A legacy left behind
Throwing light on the historical significance behind the architectural elements of the church, Krishnakumar TK, a history buff, reels off: “The thick wooden doors that welcome you at the entrance belong to the 18th century. You will not find a similar one in Chennai. Of the six bells in the Bell Tower, one was manufactured in 1754, even before the new structure came into being; another one was made in the 1780s. The rest of the bells were manufactured later in the 19th century in London and are said to weigh around 200 kg.”
Adding more on the legacy of the community itself, he says, “Armenians were traditionally rich merchants. One such influential Armenian was Coja Petrus Uscan. He was the only outsider who was allowed to build a house within the erstwhile ‘White’ town inside the fort (where Britishers resided). He contributed to the construction of the then Marmalong bridge between Saidapet and Guindy across the Adyar river, and also the steps leading to the shrine atop St Thomas Mount. His grave, however, is at St Mathiah’s Church in Vepery.”
Bringing under the spotlight the lesser-known Armenian cemeteries in other parts of the city, Krishnakumar points out, “There used to be one cemetery on Mint Street but it isn’t there anymore. It’s believed that the other one on Pallavan Salai came about in 1812 with a special request from Armenians when they did not have space to bury bodies within the church. That cemetery has about 50 graves but, again, isn’t maintained well. With a handful of monuments left behind, we need to protect and preserve them in memory of the once flourishing community.”