CHENNAI: Chennaiites often associate Thiruvottiyur — one of the oldest habitation by the sea — with the majestic gopurams of Adipureeswarar and Thiyagarajaswamy temple, small-scale industrial units, power plants, refineries, fishing harbour, docks and hamlets. Given that the suburb has been grappling with perennial civic and environmental problems in the recent years, it might be hard for us to believe that this north Chennai neighbourhood was once frequented by swans, lush with paddy and sugarcane fields, adorned with colourful flower gardens, bustled with trade and was a trove of precious gems. In her presentation for Nam Veedu, Nam Oor, Nam Kadhai, ‘Time Travel to Ancient Thiruvottiyur’, historian Meenakshi Devaraj showed us this side of the area through evidence gathered from inscriptions and Bhakti literature.
“The earliest records of Thiruvottiyur can be found in the works of 6th century poet Aiyadigal Kadavarkon. While he doesn’t describe the locality much, evidence shows that the Adipureeswarar temple was famous even before the sixth century,” began Meenakshi. From the 6th to 20th century, the history of Thiruvottiyur is believed to have been documented by many saints and poets.
Flora and fauna
Much has been said about the landscape of the once green neighbourhood, too. The Periyapuranam that talks about the history of saint Appar Thirunavukkarasar, mentions how he received a royal welcome during his visit here in the 7th century. “The streets were clean, lamps were lit, houses were adorned with banana and betel nut tree stalks and thoranams. Meanwhile, Appar in Thevaram highlights the boats and conches found on the shore, and the thick high-yielding fields of sugarcane and red paddy,” she explained.
A century later, Sundarar, a Nayanmar, mentions a type of conch called sanjalam, gems like diamonds and pearls brought by the sea and the punnai trees that dotted the locality. In Periyapuranam, when talking about the history of Kalinayanar, another Nayanmar who lived in Thiruvottiyur, sings praises of native flower varieties like kurukathi, punnai, gnazhal, seruthi, shaenbagam and kaaithai.
In the 16th-century Sthala Purana, too, there is evidence of greenery. Roads being cleaned with rose water has also been noted. Vallalar, the 19th century saint, was perhaps the last one to pen vivid descriptions about the ecosystem when he talks about the presence of abundant water, ponds, kayal fish, mango gardens, anna paravais (swans) and thazhai flowers. “Much later, in a book called Vivasaya Vilakkam (1901), there are references of coconut and sugarcane fields. A culinary book, Nalavembaagasastiram (1914), talks about high-quality rice varieties like samba nel and kaarpachchai grown here. There was a milch cattle market until about 1939,” she said. While a lot of the green cover has been lost to industrialisation post the British invasion, the leftovers can still be maintained, she suggested.
Celebrations and ceremonies
The residents never missed an opportunity to deck up the area for special occasions. “The Periyapuranam gives a description of saint Gnanasambadar’s visit in the 7th century. Upon request from a merchant, Sivanesan, to revive his dead daughter, arrangements were made for the saint to travel from Thiruvottiyur to Mylapore. The entire pathway looked like Devalokam,” she shared.
To date, festivals during the Tamil months of Aani, Avani, Margazhi and Chithirai are observed grandly. Puthu Yeedu (Pongal), Thai Poosam and Panguni Uthiram attract devotees from across India. One occasion with a historic reference is the Magizhadi Sevai in Maasi month. “When Sundarar came here in the 8th century, he fell in love with a garland-maker, Sangili Nachiyar. He took an oath in front of a magizham tree to not leave the place and they got married. Even today, their marriage is enacted in front of the tree to commemorate the event,” she noted.
Kingdoms and contributions
There’s ample evidence of the area being ruled predominantly by the Pallavas and the Cholas. “The Pallavas, during the 9th century, are believed to be the first kingdoms to dominate the area and the early structure of the Adipureeswarar temple would’ve been built by them. Temple inscriptions reveal words such as videl vidugu (Pallava’s royal symbol) and dharmasana (judicial body), which indicate evidence of administration. A method of irrigation called yetram and a waterbody called kavadi erikarai are also mentioned,” she said.
The Chola’s rule from 10th to 13th century was a golden period. “The central government and village administration worked in tandem, took care of auditing and punished tax defaulters. Agriculture was given importance. Padinaru senkol (16-unit rod) and sripada were followed to measure the land. A damming system to provide water to the fields was followed and the administration even maintained a public watershed. The uncultivated land was leased and flower gardens were maintained,” she noted.
There was a dedicated street called Nel Kuru Salai for husking paddy. There are mentions of five ladies, with uncommon names — Kavundazhi, Thiruvandi, Vadukazhvi, Periyanachi — being deployed for this task. “Marakal measurements were used for rice and a variety called pattai kuthal arisi is mentioned. Besides agriculture, there were weavers (saliyars) who lived on a street called Jayasinga Kulakala Perunderu. Special tax for looms and dyers were collected. There are traces of salt pans as well,” she said. There are inscriptions depicting a similar agriculture and tax system being followed during the rule of Vijayanagar empire in the 14th century.
For the love of art
Celebrating special occasions with music and dance performances was at its peak during the Chola rule. The inscriptions talk about temple women reciting Thevaram, Thiruvempavai, Periyapuranam and Thirupalliyezhuchi in temples. “There are records of different types of temple dancers like Devaradaiyar, Taliyilar and Ishbhattaliyars who held the coveted titles of Thalaikol (a prestigious title for a dancer from Silapathikaram time). Among them, those married were called agamudayar. They purchased lands and gifted many precious things to the temples,” she elaborated.
The 14th-century inscriptions belonging to the Sambuvarayar period mentioned important settlements that were made to temple women. “Duties to be performed by them and rewards to be given to them were also there. Dance items like sandikunippam, chokkam and agamargam have also been referred to,” she said. Later, in the 18th or 19th century, musician Thiagarajar is said to have visited the area and composed Thiruvottiyur pancharatna.
Post-British era
Industrialisation was brought by the British to Thiruvottiyur after acquiring it in 1718. “The area had rich waterbodies, so the Britishers brought in artisans and weavers from other areas and set up Colletpet (now called Kaladipet). It became a manufacturing hub of British Calico (unprocessed cotton),” said Meenakshi.
The scenario gradually transformed and the present Thiruvottiyur is a commercial hub. “I would wish for people to visit the temples here. It is as beautiful as Kapaleeswarar or Parthasarathy temple. By doing so, we can encourage the temple administration to preserve and maintain the premises better. If not for the inscriptions, we wouldn’t have known the legacy,” she said.