A heartbreaking saga of turning heritage sites into amusement parks

As the Mint clock tower gets a makeover, heritage enthusiasts and archaeologists call for guidelines to restore buildings of importance 
Newly renovated age-old Mint clock tower at Old Washermanpet in Chennai. (Photo | Debadatta Mallick, EPS)
Newly renovated age-old Mint clock tower at Old Washermanpet in Chennai. (Photo | Debadatta Mallick, EPS)

CHENNAI: Can you imagine the Chennai Central Railway Station in any shade except the brick-red? The Ripon building’s facade donning anything but a frosty white paint? No? Recently, the 60-feet-tall Mint clock tower in Old Washermanpet was distastefully repainted by the Corporation in hues of cyan, yellow, pink and blue, robbing it of its architectural authenticity. The “spruced up” look takes the structure far from its warm tans and pale shades, a palette associated with the edifice’s iconic Art Deco architectural style.

Memories of Mint 

Octogenarian Muthuswamy, who recalls spending his childhood around the tower, tells that he is disappointed. “The tower holds a significant place in the heritage of the city and the memories of many like me. It’s particularly close to working-class people who toiled and shaped Madras. So, to renovate it without being mindful of what it stands for, for the sake of beautification is disappointing. While the intention might have been to preserve it, the execution in line with its exterior seems to have failed its purpose,” says Muthu, talking about the tower which was inaugurated in the early 1900s.

Author-historian Nivedita Louis, weighing in on the misstep by the Corporation, suggests that there needs to be an immediate course correction. “Recently, when the Jallianwala Bagh memorial went through a revamp, there was uproar from people across the country pointing to how hideously it had been done, erasing parts of history. While we cannot draw comparisons to the events that took place or their significance, what we need to be aware of is that the structures we have closer to home too hold a place of importance. They constitute the essence of the city and it shines through every brick and should be safeguarded.”

Over time, the functionality of clock towers like the Mint have become obsolete. But beyond its role as a time-teller, the structure is a testimony of the city’s architectural heritage. Back in the day, the British officers at Fort St.George are said to have fired cannonballs at 8 pm daily, as a marker of time. When the first standalone clock tower was established in the early 20th century at Doveton Junction, Purasawalkam, this practice was stopped. The Mint clock tower was built soon after, making it one of the oldest towers in the city. 

A guide to conservation 

S Suresh, archaeologist and Tamil Nadu state convener of Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), notes, “Since buildings such as the Mint clock tower are public structures that aren’t too old (despite their heritage significance) and belong to the colonial or the post-colonial period, they don’t come under the purview of the archaeology department. Hence, the rigid rules of archaeological conservation as per international standards are not followed by the authorities who try to repair or restore these structures. Though the very fact that it has been renovated is a welcome sign, it would be prudent that before undertaking any restoration, the authorities consult the government archaeology department, freelance or retired archaeologists or organisations like INTACH who have the expertise in doing these works. These stakeholders can play an advisory role and the authorities in charge can carry out the restoration. The objective is to follow international norms and finer details of restoration which many may not be aware of.” 

Iconic Art Deco

Urban conservation architect Prathyaksha Krishna Prasad, who through her venture Art Deco Madras has been trying to document the architecture style and in the process preserve its legacy in the city, points to how such blunders can lead to permanent damage. “Though it is nice to see efforts by the government towards heritage structures, there are moments you want to ask them to stop. In efforts like this, though the idea is appealing, there is a certain value that is lost. Art Deco represented a whole new culture, a socio-economic movement that touched society. It’s essential to respect that. Additionally, heritage structures have to be conserved in a way that the process is reversible. An irreversible plan can alter the structure, sometimes even adversely damage them,” she informs.

Paint matters  

The paint of a building, albeit centring only on the exterior of a structure is a crucial part of its composition. “Even if there is scope to repaint it, it should be done following the painting norms along with other norms of architecture. In this case, while the intentions might have been in the right place, the work done is a matter of sheer ignorance,” says Suresh.

The paint for age-old buildings should be determined based on certain parameters. “Structures of historical importance have distinct architectural styles, features and stories. The colour palette is an important factor that helps us identify these timelines. These structures shouldn’t be treated in the same way as a newly constructed building,” emphasises Thirupurasundari Sevvel, architect and founder of Nam Veedu, Nam Oor, Nam Kadhai. 

In the case of  Mint clock tower too, heritage conservationist Ashmitha Athreya of Madras Inherited opines that the architectural value of the structure should have been studied. “This includes the colour because it’s an integral component in building conservation. The newly-painted colours should have been part of the Art Deco palette. Such instances of ignorance further the necessity to put conservation policies on paper and apply them practically. As a city with extensive heritage, we need to set an example for conservation and become a model for such projects in the future,” she says.

A Corporation official stated that the current colour palette didn’t have a specific theme. “The paint was chosen only to ensure effective adhesion, durability and easier maintenance of the structure and we decided to give it a multi-colour look. Back when these structures were built, there were limited colour options. So, you found only a monochrome palette. The other colours that the tower has seen so far have faded away quickly. This tower is not a listed heritage structure and didn’t require consultations from the conservation committee. The painting was done in line with giving a new look to public structures in the city. The clock too has been repaired and is now working but needs constant maintenance,” said the official. On asking if there is scope for repainting, the official added, “We will consider if there’s a necessity for it.” 

An appeal

Conservationists and enthusiasts are currently calling for a restored look. For Sandhanavalli, a 70-year-old former resident of George Town, currently in the city visiting her grandchildren, the Mint mani koondu holds a very important place in her life. “My husband and I met for the first time under it. I was shocked to see it painted this way,” says the retired teacher, who moved to Mumbai decades ago. “I see how well the city’s heritage is maintained in Mumbai, and it aches me to see ours in such a state. Is coating a structure with random colours in the name of beauty enough to preserve its legacy? Indha koondu mani sollum, vazhi sollum, nariya kadhaiyum sollum (It tells time, direction and stories). While it still ticks, can the authorities please bring its old charm back?” she appeals.

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