CHENNAI: In the crisp December breeze, Chennai — the cultural capital of India — transforms into a harmonious haven every year. From mid-December to mid-January, the enchanting notes of Carnatic music fill the air, marking the arrival of the Margazhi music season. Over the years, what began as a regional celebration has now evolved into a global phenomenon; beckoning artistes and rasikas — foreigners and NRIs alike — from distant corners of the world.
A sense of belonging
One such rasika from London is Devie Mohan. She has been travelling to attend the December music season since 2010. If not for cyclone Michaung that wreaked havoc in the city last week, Devie would have reached Chennai a few days earlier. “My flight was rerouted to Bengaluru. Chennai has weathered similar challenges like the 2015 floods and subsequent cyclones. The city is resilient and people somehow bounce back,” says the trained classical dancer who began sabha-hopping on Saturday.
Despite the setback caused by the cyclone, with certain areas of the city gradually returning to normalcy, the festival has commenced energetically to uplift spirits and showcase the healing potency inherent in the realms of arts and devotion. And, following a brief hiatus during the pandemic and the subsequent years, this year is witnessing a busy season with a promising turnout of enthusiasts travelling to India.
“There’s something for everyone and all are welcome. It’s also an opportunity to network with people from all over the world. We’re all in touch till date,” exclaims Devie, who grew up in Kerala and Chennai, and migrated to London 20 years back.
Carole Gurusamy, a regular attendee of the season since 2005, echoes a comparable feeling. “It’s highly likely that you’ll find yourself sharing a table with the performing artiste at the sabha canteen and engaging in a brief conversation. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming; there’s a sense of camaraderie among everyone.”
Based out of Australia, Carole is the mother of Christopher Gurusamy, a professional Bharatanatyam dancer and a student of Kalakshetra who has been residing, working, and performing in Chennai for the past 14 years. “I’ve learnt a lot about music here and I’m really in awe of how things can be in classical music,” she adds.
The magic of Margazhi
For more than a few decades, the season has promised to be an opportunity for global enthusiasts and performers to immerse themselves in the vibrant cultural tapestry and cross-cultural camaraderie; creating a unique convergence of musical passion and global appreciation.
There are numerous reasons why enthusiasts consider the iconic December festival truly unique. Words fall short in attempting to articulate the emotions it inspires, as the essence is best grasped through personal experience. Classical dancer Ramya Harishankar resonates strongly with this sentiment. Having grown up in Mylapore and relocated to Los Angeles four decades ago, the mention of Margazhi evokes a wave of nostalgia for her. “During our visit in 2015, Chennai faced severe floods, leading to the closure of the airport. Despite these challenges, we courageously navigated through adversity to immerse ourselves in the divine energy of Margazhi, such is its remarkable potential,” recalls Ramya. This is how she provides a glimpse of the festival to her colleagues abroad.
“The entire city comes alive with a vibrant buzz. The vitality of dance, music, and the arts is tangible. There’s an overwhelming surge of artistic and creative energy. We lack anything quite like it anywhere else,” she says.
Despite attending numerous festivals worldwide, the Margazhi music season maintains a special place in Devie’s heart. “I undergo a spiritual awakening here. Through the dance art form, I feel a profound connection to God. I’ve explored hip-hop and jazz, but nothing compares to Bharatanatyam, which instills self-discipline. This is the largest festival globally — spread over a month with concerts all day — for Bharatanatyam dance and classical music,” she enthusiastically declares.
For individuals like James Murphy from Sydney, the Margazhi season represents a fusion of beautiful art forms that prompt contemplation about life. “I’m drawn to the Hindu philosophy and find resonance in it,” shares James, who encouraged his husband Sachin — a Bharatanatyam dancer — to complete his arangetram in 2016. “Organising it pulled me into the art form. I call it his dancing prayer. We enjoy seeing male and female dancers at the academy, something that we hope continues. Sachin is all set to attend this year’s festival,” he adds.
Collaborations and camaraderie
With over 100 sabhas hosting hundreds of concerts daily, enthusiasts find themselves presented with an abundance of choices. “I usually keep track of my favourite artistes, and the festival also provides a chance to uncover emerging talents who might later achieve widespread recognition, as seen with artistes like Sid Sriram,” remarks Devie.
Ramya, who has experienced the festival from both perspectives — as a rasika and as a performer — appreciates the advantages of each. “The last time I performed was in 2012. I’ve cherished the experience of being on stage as well as enthusiastically supporting my students during their performances,” shares the dancer. She will be presenting her perspectives on the evolving traditions from the diaspora in a session titled ‘Evolving Traditions’ on December 17 at Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan.
The diaspora has matured. Artistes abroad play a significant and integral role in enriching the cultural landscape in Chennai, firmly believes Ramya. “We are no longer on the periphery. Building an audience for performances outside India can be challenging, so the mutual support between artistes and audiences abroad and those in Chennai is vital. It’s a transactional relationship, crucial for the continued growth of the Margazhi festival,” she notes.
A platform of possibilities
As she aptly observes, the festival serves as a vital platform for artistes from abroad to exhibit their talents, connect with fellow performers, and stay abreast of the latest trends. New York-based Bharatanatyam dancer Sophia Salingaros wholeheartedly concurs. The artiste will be visiting the country to present performances in Chennai, Bengaluru, Mysuru, and New Delhi.
“This marks my fourth visit to India, and it’s my second time in Chennai. Margazhi holds a central position for Bharatanatyam, making it the ideal place to connect with the finest dancers,” beams Sophia, who has been studying the traditional art form since the age of nine. “My family is from Europe, and my parents have been incredibly supportive of my passion. I recall being the only non-Indian girl in my dance class in Texas. I have a deep love for this dance form,” she adds with a smile.
Sophia views it as an honour to share the stage with some of the most skilled and talented dancers. “A member of the audience held my hand and teared up after watching my last performance here before the pandemic. Such gestures hold more significance to me than the show running to a full house,” she emphasises.
Tiffin and tunes
For rasikas, Margazhi extends beyond just music and dance; an integral aspect is undoubtedly the food, and they have a wealth of experiences and opinions to share about it.
Sophia acknowledges that canteens provide the perfect setting for engaging in conversations with both strangers and friends, covering a myriad of topics. “I’m a chai person, and dosa is my absolute favourite; I could have it three times a day,” she shares.
Devie adds her perspective, saying, “Back in London, I live next to Saravana Bhavan, my go-to place. But, there’s nothing quite like the experience of standing in a queue at a canteen between performances and grabbing a cup of piping hot filter coffee. The ambience and simplicity evoke a special sentiment.”
Even with a fresh array of innovative delicacies presented each year by sabha caterers, elai sapadu remains a perennial favourite for everyone. “The menu at popular sabhas like Mylapore Fine Arts, Music Academy, Parthasarathy Sabha, Narada Gana Sabha gets us all excited. Isn’t food the best conversation starter?” asks Ramya. For Carole, sabha food is non-negotiable and has evolved so much in the last few years. “Who doesn’t love dosa and sambhar? However, fresh juice like watermelon is my favourite,” she shares.
For the love of Chennai
Above all, what reigns supreme on their list is their profound love for Chennai. Carole enthuses how much she loves shopping at Pothys, Nalli and Sundari Silk. The most enjoyable aspect is strolling through the bustling, crowd-filled streets of T Nagar. “Unlike Australia, Chennai is super crowded and that’s what I love the most. My son’s friends here have invited us to stay home and fondly call me aunty and mummy. The people have instilled my faith in humanity,” shares Carole who has spent some of her New Year’s here in Besant Nagar and churches.
Echoing this sentiment, Devie expresses, “I have a deep affection for Chennai, and if I were to relocate to India, this is where I’d want to settle. The city is surrounded by beautiful temples.”
Likewise, for Sophia, the city offers abundant opportunities for exploration when she’s not moving between sabhas. “I have a deep appreciation for art, history, and culture. Above all, it’s the perfect time to have all my dance attire tailored,” she smiles.
James observes that the city has undergone a positive transformation. He appreciates its charmingly conservative nature and notes, “We love India for all her complexity. The infrastructural development and transportation system have significantly improved. Sometimes, it’s refreshing not to be overly structured, akin to back home in Sydney, and that’s what I appreciate about Chennai.”
Making every kutcheri count
Margazhi music festival has come a long way since its inception many decades back. Some enthusiasts, like Devie, believe that with a few additional improvements, the festival could reach new heights and bring a boost to local tourism.
“The ticketing process should be more organised. Attending the festival can be a costly affair for us, and we come here because we genuinely believe in its offerings. Having a helpline or someone to guide and address our queries would be extremely beneficial. Let’s make the most of the festival,” suggests Devie.
As the festival continues to evolve and welcome suggestions for improvement, the shared passion for the arts and the city’s enduring charm solidify Margazhi’s position as a cultural cornerstone that transcends boundaries and resonates with the hearts of all those who are fortunate enough to be a part of it.