CHENNAI: Virginia Woolf once said, ‘One cannot think well, love well, sleep well if one has not dined well.’ In 2023, Chennaiites had little to worry about in this regard, thanks to a dynamic food scene that offered a mixed bag of delights.
From the ever-brewing allure of coffee to the revival of traditional cuisine creatively adapted for modern tastes, and the emergence of micro-cuisine pop-ups providing a platform for home chefs — it’s a narrative where trends both linger and bid farewell. But the enduring constant is the city’s insatiable appetite for all things food. Let’s flip through some pages of the Metro’s culinary chronicle.
Biryani, all day!
Biryani is an emotion, and in Chennai, it’s taken seriously. Remaining a perennial favourite among Indians on food apps, the folks at city-based Bai Veetu Kalyanam (BVK Biryani) decided to sprinkle some tech magic onto this cherished experience. They developed a cutting-edge, unmanned takeaway ordering haven in Kolathur, unveiled in March. With sleek 32-inch screens inviting customers to explore their menu and place orders, it’s not your usual biryani stop. Payments are seamless as you can scan a QR code or swipe a card, and voila! The vending machine orchestrates the delivery of a freshly packed biryani delight in mere minutes. As the city embraced this innovative concept, the crowd gathered around it like a regular ATM during a payday frenzy. It seems Chennai knows how to appreciate a good biryani, served with a side of tech flair.
‘App’solute solutions
Following in the footsteps of Swiggy and Zomato, a myriad of food-centric apps has proliferated over the last few years. Among these, Foodwall and Bhookle have emerged as a boon for city residents. Foodwall, a food-centric social networking platform, positions itself as the ultimate destination for all things related to food content and information. By fostering conversations about food, it brings together individuals, turning strangers into participants in the dialogue. Similarly, Bhookle distinguishes itself by offering over 800 dishes exclusively prepared by home chefs. This initiative provides Chennaiites with access to home-cooked, healthy, and unadulterated meals. Nothing like home-made love, right?
Old is gold
While the farm-to-table concept isn’t new, its steady growth in the city has created niche experiences for those who value it. Recently, Madras Mandi, a local fresh produce supplier, orchestrated ‘Kootanchoru’, a distinctive farm-to-table event that blended tradition with the allure of farm-fresh ingredients and inventive culinary techniques. Notably, the wedding menu of celebrity couple Ashok Selvan and Keerthi Pandian, curated by Vizha, captivated netizens by incorporating elements connecting with their native localities, featuring unique dishes like mapillai sodhi, paruthi paal payasam, iruttukadai halwa, sandhavai, and more. Star ingredients sourced directly from their farm, including narthangai, kidarangai, sapota, mango, jackfruit, sweet potato, plantain, jamun, among others, were artistically twisted to offer guests an essence of the local reinterpreted in a contemporary way. This multidisciplinary team, known for their culinary experiments, not only embraces the farm-to-table ethos but also crafts curated dining experiences that celebrate the essence of local produce in a modern context.
Made by home chefs with love
The pandemic turned the spotlight on home-cooked and comfort food, leading to a surge in home chefs across the city. What began as a passion at home evolved into a pop-up culture, allowing food enthusiasts not only to savour diverse cuisines but also to engage with the chefs. From the World Refugee Day celebration featuring Sri Lankan, Afghan, and Myanmar refugees to the Nikah Biryani Pop-up capturing the essence of wedding meals sans the fuss, and the Gujarati Food Festival during Navratri by GRT Hotels showcasing Parul Bhatt’s specialities to Hyatt Regency’s Ghar Ka Khanna uniting home chefs of unconventional cuisines — embracing diversity, the city extends appreciation to these empowering home chefs.
All things South Indian
Despite the influx of international and regional chains into the city, Chennai’s unwavering affection for local flavours stands strong. The enduring love for aromatic biryani and non-vegetarian delights served on banana leaves, including delectable meat spare parts, remains a local favourite. This loyalty is reflected in the increasing number of eateries dedicated to serving authentic namma ooru saapadu (local cuisine). Pallavas offers an array of biryanis and curries representing the rich South Indian culinary heritage. The Ambur Canteen presents Ambur delicacies rooted in ancestral recipes, while Madurai Veeran brings the best of staples from the Madurai and Salem regions. Thanjai Veerasamy specialises in Chettinad specials. Chettinad Canteen, another gem in Alwarpet, opened its door to delicacies from the region through its fixed five and seven-course meals.
One for all palates
In a culinary landscape predominantly shaped by carnivorous cravings, the burgeoning demand for vegetarian fare found its oasis this year. Amid the carnivore-centric establishments, Upavihar in Anna Nagar emerged as a beacon of diversity, bringing a taste of Bengaluru to the city with offerings like Benne Masala Dosa, Open Butter Masala Dosa, and Chow Chow Bath. Catering to North Indian cuisine enthusiasts, B’VEG and Dil Se Rasoi delighted taste buds with an array of savoury vegetarian delights. Kites Pure Veg Multi Cuisine Restaurant gave continental delights, while Urban Theka Egmore carved a niche as a welcoming refuge for those on the lookout for budget-friendly vegetarian indulgences. Millet Magic Meal stood out by presenting healthier alternatives incorporating the goodness of millet. While some non-vegetarian establishments extended their menu to include vegetarian choices, the allure of a dedicated vegetarian haven remained unparalleled.
Cafes, coffee, and conversations
Chennai’s love for filter coffee has seamlessly blended with the contemporary rise of artisan coffee brands, evident in the growing number of cafes and roasteries across the city. From the charming Halt & India Brew House in Anna Nagar to the expansive Bask by Coffee in a converted bungalow, Chennai boasts a plethora of coffee havens. Even the popular Glen’s Bakehouse chain, with its six outlets including one in Anna Nagar, indulges patrons with delectable red velvets and pastries. Bridging the gap between caffeine and technology, Bistograph takes innovation a step further by allowing you to have a photo printed on your coffee. One of the recent additions is the Tuscan Cafe in Alwarpet, earning acclaim for its gothic ambiance, exceptional coffee, and delectable baked items. Chennai’s coffee culture has indeed evolved, offering a diverse range of experiences for enthusiasts.
Hits beyond Instagram
The year fostered a thriving cafe culture marked by an influx of Instagram-worthy establishments. Standalone kiosk or quick-service restaurant (QSR) ventures, such as exclusive bao or Milo drink establishments, gained instant popularity. Despite fluctuations in the industry, biryani maintained its steadfast market presence. However, the opening of new establishments differed significantly from their ability to sustain a successful model. Many of these aesthetically pleasing cafes, while visually appealing, often fell short in terms of product quality. Looking ahead, in 2024, there’s a forecast that experimental cuisine will gradually make its mark in the market, potentially becoming a game-changer.
A win for regional cuisine
In 2023, amid the proliferation of numerous restaurants and cafes, an impressive trend emerged — the growing appreciation for regional cuisine. This culinary inclination appears to persist into 2024. The surge in travel has notably heightened people’s awareness for diverse foods, indicating an unwavering commitment to savouring authentic culinary experiences that show no signs of compromise.
Themes for the win
The city has a penchant for themed restaurants, and the options are plentiful. Positioned as Chennai’s Play & Dine hotspot, Cafe Madras Borough in Thoraipakkam, the city’s IT hub, stands out by celebrating the lively essence of Chennai’s streets through its menu. Beyond the culinary experience, the cafe entertains with VR games, PS5, and board games. The trend extends to water-themed restaurants like Sea Tales, Alai Osai, and Mirchi Express. Alai Osai stands out with its hook-and-cook concept, allowing patrons to catch their fish. Another unique experience awaits at Teto, providing a multisensory journey that tantalises not only the taste buds but engages other senses as well. After all, what’s good food without a memorable experience?
When food meets innovation
From coffee in a cone to creatively crafted cotton candy in 20 different designs and viral cube croissants from London, the world of quirky food items is boundless. Defying gravity, milkshakes that captivate the senses have become a sensation. This trend dominates social media accounts, with influencers showcasing these Instaworthy delights through captivating reels and photos. Restaurants are embracing experimentation, and so are consumers. Zhouyu - A Chinese Kitchen in Alwarpet introduced boba (bubble tea) with French toast, while Baskin Robbins unveiled an innovative ice cream pizza. Bistograph stepped into the unconventional with donut burgers, but it was the honut and conut (hot chocolate or coffee served in a donut) at Cuppa Coffee that stole the spotlight. In the realm of limitless culinary creativity, these quirky food trends redefine gastronomy, transforming each dining experience into a visual and flavourful adventure.
One for the night owls
The late-night culinary landscape has undergone a transformation, witnessing the emergence of restaurants that extend their operating hours until 3 am or 4 am, presenting an array of swift, budget-friendly, and delectable dining options. Residents along the ECR have embraced the recent addition of the Mount Road Bilal outlet. The establishment has become a hotspot with a winding queue for their piping hot biryani persisting well into the early morning hours. Notable mentions include Roll Baby Roll, Melt in Nungambakkam, and Cream Story in Anna Nagar. Furthermore, places like Kathipara Urban Square and Kora Food Street remain bustling hubs throughout the night, providing not only culinary delights but also entertainment. While Chennai boasts its roster of OG spots that have long served a loyal clientele, the new additions only adds to the city’s vibrant scene.