CHENNAI: On a rainy Friday evening, when I was down with a bad cold, all I could think of was indulging in a comforting bowl of hot pork kimchi curry with rice. So, I made my way to North East Kitchen (Specialty Cuisine Restaurant) on Ethiraj Salai, a cosy, no-frills spot that has become my second home over the last three years.
I make it a tradition to visit there once a month, and I never miss an opportunity to rave about its offerings to my friends. But what truly makes it so special? Some feelings are hard to put into words and I’m confident that’s a shared sentiment among all patrons of the restaurant that it has endearingly amassed since its inception in July 2014.
From Manipur to Madras
The story of its founder Ramayon Keishing and his humble beginnings in Chennai dates back to 1996 when he migrated from his hometown Sorathen village, Kamjong district in Manipur in pursuit of a job. He worked as a manager in the catering department at Hyundai Motor Company for ten years. Influenced by his exposure to Korean cuisine at his workplace and his desire to serve a slice of northeast Indian cuisine, he decided to open the restaurant.
“With a modest investment, my wife Nimring Keishing and I scouted for suitable locations all over the city. I stumbled upon a to-let signboard outside Wellington Plaza where we are currently situated, and it matched our budget. The owner was exceptionally accommodating. After praying to God, I took the plunge into the world of hospitality business,” beams Ramayon, who lives with his wife and three children in Adambakkam.
In the past 10 years, the home-style food has won the affection of not only the northeast community residing in Chennai but also the locals and expatriates. “I’m completely self-taught. Initially, my wife and I were the sole operators in the kitchen. Today, we have five staff members from my hometown,” he shares.
A leap of faith
Establishing a brand and customer base in a foreign land is no mean feat. Nevertheless, today, Ramayon’s phone is constantly buzzing with orders from clients all over Chennai.
“Initially, my wife and I distributed pamphlets and news of our unique offerings spread among our community. Soon it began to attract a regular crowd. While I may not have been making substantial profits, there was no financial shortfall either,” expresses a grateful Ramayon.
Their extensive menu features a diverse selection of northeast Indian and Korean delights, from pork sticky curry to samgyeopsal, a spicy barbecued pork belly, all at reasonable prices and ample portion sizes. “The preparation styles in various northeastern states differ subtly, influenced by the availability of seasonal ingredients. Staples like bamboo shoot, eromba (fermented fried fish as the star ingredient, mashed with potatoes, king chillies, and other local seasonal vegetables), smoked pork, and more are universally enjoyed,” he says.
Naga king chilli, famous for its fiery spiciness, and wild pepper, reputed to have tongue-tingling qualities, are not only flavourful but also have medicinal benefits and are gentle on the stomach, according to Ramayon.
“We use fresh, minimal ingredients that are rich in nutrients. Unlike local cuisines, we avoid heavy masalas. Our dishes are balanced with just the right amount of oil and spices. Honestly, much like home-cooked food, some days are better than others,” he explains.
In his 50s, Ramayon procures indigenous and seasonal ingredients like king chilli, bamboo shoots, and wild pepper from his hometown, while locally sourcing the meat and vegetables. “My father has taught me the significance of a well-balanced diet with meat and vegetables. Similarly, our rice bowls for customers would accompany salad, sprouts, and spinach.” For those new to the cuisine, Ramayon takes the responsibility of explaining the menu. “These dishes have unfamiliar names, and the locals need to understand what they’re ordering to appreciate it fully. Take fermented soybean paste, for instance; it has a strong aroma that can be off-putting to some. Some of these delicacies require an acquired taste,” he adds.
True to roots:
Despite the mushrooming of Korean and Japanese restaurants in the city in the last few years, this eatery has carved out a special place in the hearts of students due to its budget-friendly prices. Its Korean cuisine has gained popularity, thanks to the influence of Korean web series and films.
“We have a steady stream of students from IIT Madras, and we’re also a go-to spot for people from our region who come to Apollo Hospital on Greams Road for treatment,” Ramayon points out. Additionally, there are several vegetarian options available, ensuring a variety of choices for all diners.
Despite some patrons suggesting the idea of transforming the eatery into a multi-cuisine restaurant, Ramayon remains resolute in his commitment to preserving the authenticity of northeastern cuisine. He’s also explored various avenues, from catering for parties to participating in food festivals to educating people about the cuisine.
While a few other eateries are serving northeast Indian cuisine in Choolaimedu, they coexist peacefully as a close-knit community, affirms Ramayon. The community, spread across the city, comes together on special occasions such as New Year and Christmas. “Various northeastern communities convene at different churches. We gather at C.S.I. St. Matthias’ Church in Vepery, where approximately 150 of us assemble from 3pm to 6pm, and the crowd can swell to 600 on significant events,” he explains.
The past few months, particularly since the outbreak of violence in Manipur, have been painful for him. However, the community in the city has frequently come together to express solidarity and offer support to one another during these turbulent times. “It’s disheartening We’ve often felt neglected and let down for years now,” laments Ramayon.
For a better tomorrow
Ramayon and his family travel to their hometown once a year, or sometimes once every two years. “It’s financially challenging as our livelihood is here. That’s precisely why when people from our community in the city, feeling homesick, refer to this place as their haven, it warms my heart,” he says.
Despite the challenges, the people of Chennai have consistently stood by him. His grocery suppliers and vegetable vendors have shown exceptional understanding by allowing him more time to settle his accounts during turbulent times. Especially during the pandemic, his loyal customers became a crucial source of support. “The pandemic was the toughest period, as I lost all the profits I had earned. Online delivery became a lifeline,” shares Ramayon, who was forced to close the branch that he opened in Velachery just before the pandemic.
While we may believe that opportunities have multiplied, and the times have evolved, the reality often presents a starkly different perspective. Many residents of the northeast Indian community in Tamil Nadu come to the region to make a living, often working in unorganised sectors such as hospitality and personal grooming industries.
“The youngsters are not well-versed in technology and tend to pursue arts degrees. Access to quality education is a formidable obstacle, and the majority are unable to pursue careers in medicine or engineering due to financial constraints, as poverty remains prevalent,” explains Ramayon, who holds a postgraduate degree in Commerce from the University of Delhi, and is a first-generation learner in his family. This discrepancy highlights the long road they still have to travel. “People seldom understand our circumstances. Precisely why it feels like rubbing salt in our wounds when some of us are exposed to racial and other forms of discrimination. We’re as capable as anyone else,” he asserts.
As the restaurant approaches its 10th anniversary, Ramayon holds hope for a brighter future. He envisions his son, who is currently pursuing a BBA degree, taking the helm of the business. “My desire is for him to finish his MBA and join the business. However, the decision is ultimately his,” he smiles.
For details, call 9003542066
Address: North East Kitchen (Specialty Cuisine Restaurant), Wellington Plaza, Ethiraj Salai (Opposite Ethiraj College)