CHENNAI: At nearly 250 years old, Birkenstock is a brand of serious longevity, known for manufacturing durable and comfortable sandals. It has filed to go public on the New York Stock Exchange, and experts appraise that it will be worth over US $8.7 billion. In light of this move, Birkenstock has released a statement to prospective investors in which “powerful secular trends — an increased focus on health, the casualization of daily life, the breakthrough of modern feminism and the rise of purpose-led, conscious consumption” were credited for its commercial success. Secular in this context is as opposed to cyclical trends, in stock market jargon.
On the third point, “the breakthrough of modern feminism”, the document goes on to elaborate: “The ongoing evolution and expansion of the role of women in society continue to drive meaningful shifts in their preferences in footwear and apparel. While trends in fashion come and go, we believe women’s increasing preference for functional apparel and footwear has and will prove secular in nature. As a brand that has long stood for functionality, we believe this ongoing tailwind will continue to drive relevance and growth for the BIRKENSTOCK brand.”
Unlike brands that strategically position themselves as having progressive values so as to appeal to certain demographics, cash in on certain trends and enjoy the visibility and virality benefits of provocative advertising campaigns, the history of stereotypes associated with Birkenstock speaks to an organic relationship between its stated politics and its consumer base. In American popular culture, Birkenstocks have been associated for decades with lesbians, specifically in the context of second-wave feminist movements, as well as with feminists at large. The sandal has been a signifier in and of itself: of women who don’t play by the patriarchy’s rules, along with hippies and other non-conformists.
A scene in the recent Barbie film succinctly showed why this shoe is pragmatically anti-patriarchy: Barbie, whose perpetually ballerina feet suddenly becoming flat is the first major sign of malfunction, is offered a choice between a stiletto and a Birkenstock. Does she want to sit pretty, or to saunter further, and comfortably?
The high heel — invented in 10th century Persia for ease of horse-riding among cavalrymen, then adopted by male aristocrats in 17th century Europe — has been seen by some as modern foot-binding for women. Flat shoes are a kind of freedom (high heels are a kind of freedom too, but that’s a different discussion).
This isn’t a celebration of Birkenstock itself. All this is just to note this point: the candid, and accurate, inclusion of feminism as an impactful mainstream influence in a brand’s thinking process. Many brands pay feminist-baiting lip service in their publicity and messaging.
Many brands also recoil, out of fear of being seen as niche. But to have a brand on the brink of major corporate expansion and acknowledge that feminism has been a force behind its own success is commendable. The F-word still makes so many people of all genders balk, and to offend the well-heeled (pun intended) while trying to make greater inroads within a capitalist framework is risky. But clearly, it’s becoming less so — and that is hopefully a secular trend indeed.