CHENNAI : “Manga, thenga, pattani sundal” — the vendors’s voices shrieked. These loud voices mingled with the laughter of children and the hummings of the sea become a symphony that defines Marina. As the cool sea breeze carries with it the aroma of roasted corn and seafood, it’s difficult to resist the pull of the food culture that has evolved along this long stretch of sand.
Marina Beach, an important landmark of Chennai, has witnessed a remarkable transformation — what was once a gathering place for simple snacks has now become a melting pot of flavours, offering something for every palate.
Aroma of nostalgia
In the early days, Marina Beach’s food scene was simple and traditional. According to Krishnakumar TK,writer and historian, “By the 1950s and 60s, the beach began to see more variety with the introduction of local delicacies like sundal (spiced chickpeas) and bajji (fried vegetable fritters). These became iconic snacks of Marina, served by vendors who set up makeshift stalls along the shore. The emergence of these street foods marked the beginning of Marina Beach’s identity as a food hub.”
For historian V Sriram, the beach during the 70s was synonymous with sundal. He says, “Vendors would carry square tins filled with kai murukku and other hard savouries. It was a simple time, and the beach wasn’t really about food, it was about enjoying the sea breeze and escaping the pressures of life.” But even then, the beach was beginning to carve its identity as a culinary destination. “The food scene was dominated by a few vendors selling simple snacks like roasted peanuts, sliced cucumbers, and puffed rice. These were inexpensive and portable, fitting the beachgoers’ needs,” shares the heritage enthusiast Krishnakumar.
Breeze of change
As Chennai grew and modernised itself, the changes influenced the food culture of Marina Beach, too. The 1980s and 90s were the times that saw an influx of new vendors. “The beach began to change,” Krishnakumar continues. “The advent of mobile food carts and small eateries alongside traditional snacks introduced chaat, ice creams, and local desserts. This period also saw an increase in the number of tourists, which spurred the introduction of more diverse and accessible food options.” Now, there are diverse offerings like Burmese food, comments Sriram. “The variety you see today is a reflection of how the city itself has expanded and embraced new influences,” he adds.
One can’t walk down the Marina promenade today without being enticed by the sizzling freshly fried bajji or the spiralling spring potatoes. “Making spring potatoes, both plain and special, is an art,” says Thenarasu, a vendor who has been a witness to the changes over the years. He says spring potatoes have become a staple beach food, usually savoured with mayonnaise, tomato sauce, and masala sprinkled on its edges.
Another vendor who has contributed to this evolution is Elumalai, the owner of Merina Pani Puri Stall. For over three decades, Elumalai has been serving chaat to beachgoers, weathering everything from tsunamis to pandemics and irregular rains. “Pani puri has been a favourite for many customers. Eating it by the beachside is another vibe,” he says with a smile. Elumalai’s work starts at 5 am, making samosas with his wife.
And then there’s Sundari akka, whose fish stall, S Sundari Fish Kadai, has become a crowd-puller over the past 24 years. She and her husband, Shekhar, along with their two sons, set up their stall in 2000. Serving over 10 non-veg items and meals every day, Sundari akka’s stall has become popular for fresh, delicious seafood, including fried varieties of fish, prawns, and squid. “Earlier, Sundays were a holiday, but with the surge in customers, we are open on all days,” shares Sundari. From collecting the fresh catch of the day in the early morning hours and starting the preparation with a few helpers at her stall, she barely has resting time. “Everybody has given me the name Sundari akka with so much love. That has nurtured the shop all these years. I continue to work hard for them,” she says.
Krishnakumar says the presence of food trucks and pop-up stalls has further enriched the culinary landscape, making it a vibrant spot for food lovers.
For many, this beach has become a repository of memories. Meghna, a city-based journalist, speaks of her deep connection with the beach and its offerings. “I grew up in Chennai, and the beach was a luxury for my family,” she recalls. “It was something we planned for weeks in advance. Going to Marina meant ice cream from the iconic ball ice cream vendors and searching for that perfect piece of panju mittai. I have gotten that in different colours — pink, orange, green, purple, dark blue, etc,” she says, recalling a rare incident of getting a red panju mittai.
The beach’s offerings have intertwined with the city’s identity, a symbol of both its past and its dynamic present. “Marina is unique,” says Sriram. “Unlike other coastal cities like Mumbai or Kolkata, Chennai’s Marina Beach is expansive, a place where you can truly feel the vastness of the sea and the sand. And the food — whether it’s sundal or something more modern — is a big part of that experience,” he says.
Waves of flavours
As the sun sinks below the horizon, the beach comes alive with the glow of food stalls and the chatter of customers. “The food here is more than just something you eat,” says Meghna, adding, “It’s a ritual, a way to connect with the city and with memories of childhood. Even now, whenever I visit the beach, I make it a point to find that perfect panju mittai — it’s a small taste of nostalgia that never gets old.”
As the night falls and the vendors begin to close the shops, the sounds of the beach continue to echo in the silence that trails. Marina Beach has changed, just like Chennai. But in every bite of sundal or ice mittai, there is an essence of the past, a reminder of the simple pleasures that have made this beach a beloved icon of the city.