CHENNAI: Every street of the city seems to have a small bakery, often tucked between bustling markets, some nestled in residential neighbourhoods. Among the many treats these bakeries offer, the bun-butter-jam stands out as a beloved staple.
Whether you find yourself in the heart of the busy Parry’s Corner or the quieter lanes of Mylapore, chances are the local bakery has this iconic snack on its menu. The golden-brown buns, warm from the oven, is split open and a dollop of butter slathered over the halves — rich and creamy, with a tinge of saltiness. Another layer of jam complementing the butter just perfect.
Biting into a bun-butter-jam is like taking a trip back in time. The familiar taste evokes the memories of school days when this snack was savoured on the way back home.
Bite of history
The butter bun’s story began in the early 20th century, during the British colonial era when Western-style bread and buns first made their way to Chennai, comments Krishnakumar TK, a writer and historian. “The unique addition of butter spread inside a freshly baked bun, sometimes enhanced with a sprinkle of sugar or a hint of jam, turned this simple item into a local favourite.
Small, family-run bakeries in neighborhoods like George Town, Mylapore, and Purasaiwakkam played a pivotal role in bringing the butter bun into the spotlight. By the 1960s and 1970s, the butter bun had become a staple snack across tea shops and bakeries throughout the city, often enjoyed alongside a steaming cup of filter coffee,” he says.
Krishnakumar goes on to talk about some of the famous bakeries that popularised this snack. In Purasaiwakkam, two iconic bakeries are synonymous with the butter bun. Whitefield Bakery, dating back to the 1930s, is celebrated for its old-school charm and wide array of baked goods. Smith Field Bakery, established in 1885, is another gem in this locality. Known for its delicious butter buns, it has maintained its reputation for quality and consistency over the years.
In Mylapore, Crown Bakery on Bazaar Street, has been a beloved destination for butter buns and other baked treats since its founding in 1905. Whereas in Mandaveli, Verghese Bakery has been a neighbourhood favourite since the 1950s, remains a must-visit.
In Royapettah, Universal Bakery, established in the 1960s, has gained popularity for its soft, buttery buns, attracting a dedicated following over the years.
Gopaul Dairy: A legacy of taste
Founded by V Venkatraman, a native of Erode, Gopaul Dairy has been a cornerstone of Chennai’s butter bun tradition. Krishnaraj, the third-generation owner, recalls his grandfather’s early struggles: “My grandfather struggled in the beginning as buns weren’t popular in those days. When my father took it up, he managed to grow the business. As a kid, I saw how he created a legacy by providing the best quality snack and building trust among customers.”
Krishnaraj, who now runs the shop with his son Pramod, says, “The butter we use is Uthukuli butter. We use it without refrigerating. The bun is freshly baked, and the jam is also of the highest quality. A bun stays fresh for only five hours; you have to consume it before that. Otherwise, the taste will be compromised.” Customers thronging in the shop itself is a proof of their success. Even during the pandemic, people kept enquiring about the buns. Once the restrictions were over, the crowd returned.”
A nostalgic resurgence
While Gopaul Dairy and a few other establishments have remained true to their roots, the city’s love affair with the butter bun has evolved over the years. Food curator Shabnam Banu reflects on this shift, “Bun-butter-jam is very much an emotion for people who are part of Madras. But when it became Chennai, there was a lot of civilisation, then the Gen Z influence — youngsters related to Korean cheese buns. But bun butter jam, it’s a comfort food, something we all grew up with.”
Shabnam sees the bun butter not just as a snack, but as a connection to a simpler time. “Gopaul Dairy, and Buhari on Mount Road are famous for their bun butter jam. Mount Road Bilal also became a place to go for bun maska,” she says, adding that places that are open after midnight, have added to the trend of people going in search of bun-butter-jam.
Vaishali Vijaykumar, a communication professional, sees the comeback of comfort food as a larger trend of nostalgic flavours. She says, “Bun-butter-jam has always been around. Earlier, it used to be a tea kadai staple. The whole concept of bun making a comeback is not new. But people are going for it primarily because of the nostalgia attached to it. Places like Chaiwalai and Chai Kings have added buns as part of their menu. It is quite recent.
What they do is add butter to the bun and a lot of chilli flakes. They offer that kind of bun maska.” She adds that places like Strictly Desserts have introduced innovative takes, like bun butter jam ice cream, blending the old with the new. Meanwhile, other eateries, like Irani Cafe in Royapettah, stay true to the traditional bun maska. Bun Butter Jam from Madras Coffee House, Ceylon Bun in Ram’s Tea Shop, Bun Butter Jam, and Chilli Cheese Bun from Coffee Shastra, have also become recent favourites for foodies.
But for those who have tasted the original, there is no substitute for the real deal. Krishnaraj, standing behind the counter at Gopaul Dairy, sums it up best: “We treat our customers like family. Now, with the advancement of new methods and the support from our customers, our business is going smoothly. But the core of what we do — the love and care we put into making each bun — remains unchanged.”