CHENNAI : The tale of how coffee, a humble bean, found its roots in India is an intriguing one and involves ancient source trades, a daring heist, colonial expansion and the mushrooming of digital platforms.
The origins
Though its historical roots can be traced to Africa, it was Yemen in West Asia which emerged as the powerhouse of coffee cultivation, exporting the commodity to all corners of the then-known world. Arab merchants who were engaged in trade with India, the epicentre of the spice trade, introduced roasted coffee to the subcontinent, where it quickly captivated the elites, sparking a surge in demand.
As the demand for the bean quickly outpaced supply, it was clear that the commodity had to be locally grown. But many factors prevented this. To retain their monopoly over coffee cultivation, Yemeni farmers and producers allowed only roasted beans to be sold. The penalty for the sale of green coffee beans was death.
The heist
In 1670, Indian Sufi saint Baba Budan, who was returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca, was by chance exposed to coffee in Yemen. After learning as much as possible about the bean, he devised ways to bring the seeds back home. He hid seven beans in his beard and cane, and voyaged back to India.
Once he was home, he planted the beans on the slopes of Chandragiri Hills in Chikmagalur, Karnataka. This not only marked the genesis of coffee cultivation here but also sowed the seeds of a thriving coffee culture that would spread across the country. The hills are now referred to as the Baba Budangiri Hills and a shrine is built in his honour.
The expansion
If this was the inception of coffee cultivation in India, colonial expansion proved to be the turning point. In the 18th century, realising the potential of the Indian climate for coffee cultivation, the British began large-scale plantations in the southern states. To date, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala form the core of the traditional coffee-growing region, contributing a whopping 92 per cent of the country’s coffee production.
In Tamil Nadu, the Nilgirs proved as a perfect terrain for coffee cultivation due to the climate and soil. Over the years, the cultivation flourished and it became a coffee-producing hot spot. The French influence on Indian coffee cannot be discounted. It is evident in the use of chicory, a roasted root vegetable that adds a characteristic earthy bitterness to the coffee. Indeed, this era saw the establishment of systematic cultivation methods and varied processes. Notable among them is the development of the Monsoon Malabar coffee, a unique process adapting to the challenges of sea transport.
The industry
Post-independence India witnessed a significant shift in the coffee industry with the establishment of the Indian Coffee Board and the enactment of the Coffee Act of 1942. These developments facilitated a more organised and supportive environment for coffee growers, leading to the predominance of smallholder production. Today, a significant percentage of coffee growers in India are small farmers.
These years also saw coffee being cultivated beyond the traditional belt — to the eastern coasts of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha, and to the northeastern states. This diversification introduced a variety of microclimates and terroirs, contributing to the unique profiles of Indian coffee, including the distinctive Indian-monsooned coffee.
The culture
Coffee in India has transcended its status as merely a crop. It has woven itself into the cultural fabric, especially in the south where traditional filter coffee is a revered daily ritual. Recently, TasteAtlas, a popular food and travel guide platform, released a new rating list of the ‘Top 38 Coffees In The World’, which saw our beloved filter coffee in the second spot. Served in a davara and tumbler, this milky bevarge with a frothy crown was adapted in the Tamil land in the late 19th-early 20th century. The filter coffee of Tamil Nadu originated in Kumbakonam. Often called as degree kaapi — the degree referring to the coffee’s thickness — this variant is known for its rich and robust taste.
With several brands making an online presence, access to premium coffee has been democratised, allowing consumers to enjoy high-quality brews with the click of a button.
From the daring heist of Baba Budan to the digital marketplace, the evolution of Indian coffee is as refreshing as the beverage itself.
The brew crew
A cup of hot coffee can be a solution to all the problems and stress life throws at us. Recounting their first sip of filter coffee, Chennaiites share some of their favourite joints that serve the beverage, and should make it to everyone’s must-visit list.
Jaysharan, Product owner
Introduced by a dear friend, my first taste of Kaylir Canteen’s filter coffee left a deep mark. The robust flavour of freshly ground beans ignited my taste buds, bringing back my love for coffee. This memory is precious, especially amid a recent shift in taste that led me to abandon coffee. Yet, Kaylir’s brew sparked a newfound appreciation for a good cup of filter coffee. It’s a reminder that even the simplest pleasures can bring back cherished memories.
Hemapriya, Data/AI engineer
Filter coffee is not just another beverage for South Indians, especially me. It has deep connections with the culture of the southern states. For me, holding a glass of filter coffee is an imprinted memory of my childhood. It was and is more of a comfort drink, signifying togetherness and leading up to conversations with my family. Whenever I experience a headache, I always look out for my mom and my cup of filter coffee. A caffeine fix is indeed needed to move ahead when dealing with multiple tasks. My favourite filter coffee spot is my home, made by my mum. But I am a fan of the Saravana Bhavan’s freshly brewed filter coffee as well where the aroma coupled with the ambience makes it worth every penny.
Shruti Shankar, Intern at Workhall
My first memory of having filter coffee was when I was about three years old. My paternal grandfather was a coffee enthusiast and would have four to six tumblers of coffee daily. Every time we frequented his place, he would make sure that my grandmother would bring a small tumbler, just so he could give me a portion of his coffee. Over the years, my love for filter coffee never faded because even today, I would always prefer a cup of hot filter coffee over Espressos and Americanos. Vishranthi in Besant Nagar, hands down provides the best filter coffee. The blend of chicory and coffee against their sugar ratio is just so perfect that you would immediately want to go get a second round!
Aditya Kamakshinadha, Music therapist, multi-percussionist
Nothing like one tumbler of suda suda filter coffee — The beverage that kickstarts your day and is made by percolation, infusion, or decoction from the roasted and ground seeds of a plant to give you that instant dosage of energy that your body craves for. One of my favourite places is Rayar Mess nestled in the labyrinthine streets of Mylapore. After a sumptuous tiffin, you get the option of choosing either the strong black coffee or the subtler milk version. The authentic taste is what we all yearn for and offers you just that- the coffee served fresh and piping hot like at home. Another place you ought to try out is Coffee Spot in Nungambakkam. This place serves the best bun-butter-jams and also mouth-watering chaats that fill your stomach. The sundals and samosas are also an ideal snack for the evening hunger pangs and the coffee here is an apt finisher.
Sharon Maria, Senior system associate
My first memorable experience of having filter coffee was during a visit to a cafe here many years ago. The aroma enticed me to try their famous filter coffee. When I took my first sip, and it was like a revelation. The rich, bold flavour combined with the smoothness of the milk created a perfect harmony of taste that lingered on my palate long after the cup was empty. From that moment on, filter coffee became more than just a beverage; it became a ritual, a comforting companion during moments of reflection and connection. For me, it embodies tradition, craftsmanship, and a sense of community. It’s a reminder to slow down and savour the simple pleasures in life, whether enjoyed alone or shared with loved ones. I recommend visiting Saravana Bhavan.
Siddharth, Football analyst
My favourite filter coffee place is Coffee Shastra. The fusion of a local filter coffee shop mixed with a modern vibe always amuses me. The coffee they serve is great. But hazelnut coffee is my favourite. Although a big fan of Americano (black coffee without sugar), I generally prefer the bitterness and here they maintain the taste with a touch of sweetness from the hazelnut mix. Enjoying it with some banana cake and a chat with my dear ones gives me peace of mind and a good disconnect that charges me up for the day. That’s what caffeine does to us.
Ambarish Raghavendar, Founder, The VidWants, Digital Marketing Agency
I was travelling to my native during one of my summer holidays in the mid-2000s. Though I had been drinking coffee for a few years then, it was mostly at home. I was travelling on a morning train and the coffee on the train was terrible, it was too watery and had too much sugar in it pre-mixed. That put me off the mood. Only after getting down at my native station, I had a sip of filter coffee at a hotel outside. That was the moment I began preferring filter coffee over any other hot beverages. Filter coffee to me means “home”. A sip with a bit of strong decoction and a sprinkle of sugar gives me warmth, and the aroma relaxes the body and the mind after a tiring day. My personal favourite filter coffee spots are in Mylapore — Mami Tiffen Stall and Rayar’s Mess.
Inputs: Diya Maria George, Sonu M Kothari