CHENNAI: As the rest of Chennai slumbers under the early morning mist, the Koyambedu flower market springs to life with the familiar sounds of traders unloading boxes, the rhythmic clatter of handcarts, and the distinct cry of “vazhiyile nikkathe!” (Don’t stand on the road!).
In the heart of this organised chaos, flower-laden thallu vandi (carts) squeeze through narrow lanes, navigating around countless small shops, as vendors rush to meet the increasing demand. But this time, there’s an additional urgency in the air Malayalis in the city gear up to celebrate Onam, the grand harvest festival of Kerala. Despite fewer crowds than in the years past, Koyambedu is still the starting point for every Malayali in Chennai to begin their celebrations.
For Chennai’s Malayali community, Koyambedu holds a special place in their hearts. The bustling market transforms into a vibrant celebration of Kerala’s culture during Onam, with flowers being central to the festivities. From the colourful pookalam to the traditional rituals, flowers are indispensable for marking the festival’s joy and grandeur.
A feeling of oneness
“For a Malayali living in Chennai, the Koyambedu flower market is where the Onam spirit begins,” says Alen Basha J, a photographer from Kerala who has called Chennai home for the last four years. “It’s our go-to place for all the essential flowers needed for Onam. The main reason? It’s cheap. You can buy flowers for just Rs 500 here, but in Kerala, the same amount will cost you Rs 5,000.” Alen stands amid the crowd, his eyes scanning the market for the freshest blooms, already mentally mapping out the intricate pookalam he will create.
Accompanying him is his Tamilian friend, Vigensh L, who has adopted the festive mood of Onam wholeheartedly. “Chennai celebrates all festivals without borders,” he says with enthusiasm. “Onam is no different. Whether in colleges or corporate offices, everyone drapes saris, wears dhotis, and for a day, we all pretend to be Malayalis. It’s a lot of fun!” Vigensh, like many Chennaiites, enjoys partaking in festivals from various cultures, and Onam’s spirit of unity and joy resonates deeply in this multicultural city.
Chennai’s affinity for Onam extends beyond just the Malayali diaspora. Businesses, restaurants, and even local communities join in the celebrations. The Kerala-themed restaurant Kappa Chakka Kandhari, known for its authentic dishes, looks to Koyambedu for its Onam flower requirements. Albin Kurian, an employee at the restaurant, shares the significance of the market for them: “We’ve always bought our flowers from Koyambedu for all our celebrations. For Onam, it’s crucial because we need a variety of fresh flowers for the pookalam and decorations. Plus, the prices are incredibly affordable compared to other places.”
Onam’s festive spirit is not just confined to Kerala. Tamil Nadu has embraced it wholeheartedly, making it a regional celebration. “Onam has grown beyond its Kerala roots,” says Maheshan K, a Kerala native working at Cedar Business Solutions in Koyambedu. “Even though this year many organisations have cancelled their celebrations due to the Wayanad landslide tragedy, our company decided to continue the tradition. It’s important for those of us far from home to experience a piece of Kerala here, and Koyambedu helps us achieve that.”
Challenges abound
While the customers find joy in Koyambedu, the vendors have a different story to tell. The combination of the Wayanad landslide and the recent shift of south-bound buses from Koyambedu to the Kilambakkam bus station has had a significant impact on the market’s usual hustle and bustle. “The crowd is thinner this year compared to last Onam,” observes Dr Sreekala, a long-time Chennai resident who has been visiting the market for over two decades. “The relocation of the bus station has eased traffic congestion in Koyambedu, but it has also taken away a large chunk of the market’s foot traffic.”
Despite these challenges, Dr Sreekala, like many others, continues to choose Koyambedu for her Onam shopping. “The variety and prices here are unbeatable,” she says, as she carefully selects a bundle of jasmine flowers. “Even with the smaller crowd, the spirit of Onam still shines through.”
However, for vendors like JVS Venkitesh, this year’s Onam has been particularly tough. “Both prices and sales are low this season,” he says, pointing to the rows of marigolds that haven’t been selling as quickly as they did in previous years. “Usually, there’s a high demand for flowers in Kerala during Onam, which drives up prices here too. But with many opting for smaller celebrations or none at all, demand has dropped significantly.”
K Subbiah, another vendor, also notes the sharp decline in sales. “The shift of the bus stand to Kilambakkam has hit us hard. Footfall is down, and not just for Onam, but overall. It’s a major blow to our sales, and even retailers are feeling the impact.”
Small, yet grand
As Chennai adapts to its evolving urban landscape, the grandeur of Onam celebrations is also shrinking. “Each year, Onam seems to be getting smaller and smaller,” says Murugan T, a vendor who has been in the flower business for years. “People used to start buying flowers well in advance, stocking up for the festival. But this year, sales have been slow, and even the prices are much lower than last year.” He points to a batch of Thulukka samanthi (orange marigold), a flower traditionally associated with Onam. “Last year, it was selling for over Rs 100 per kilogram. This year, it’s barely Rs 40-Rs 50.”
Murugan explains that the supply of flowers has also taken a hit. “The Thulukka samanthi only blooms during Onam, and its growing season is short — just 15-20 days. But this year, even the yield has been lower than usual.”
Retail vendors outside the market, like Jyothi, share similar concerns. “Sales have definitely dropped,” she says, echoing the sentiments of many in the market.
Despite the challenges, Koyambedu flower market remains the heartbeat of Onam for Chennai’s Malayalis. It’s more than just a place to buy flowers — it’s a reminder of home, a piece of Kerala in a city that celebrates diversity and inclusivity. Whether it’s the affordability, the vast selection of flowers, or the vibrant atmosphere, Koyambedu continues to play a vital role in Chennai’s Onam festivities.
As the sun rises higher in the sky, casting a golden hue over the market, the flower carts continue to roll, the vendors keep calling out to customers, and the spirit of Onam remains undeterred. For Chennai’s Malayalis and the wider community, Koyambedu is not just a market — it’s a symbol of tradition, resilience, and the shared joy of celebrating a festival that transcends borders.
While Onam may look different this year, with smaller crowds and quieter celebrations, Koyambedu’s essence remains unchanged. The market is a reflection of Chennai itself — a place where cultures blend, where festivals are celebrated by all, and where even in the face of change, traditions find a way to thrive.
Flower power
According to sources, during Onam, samanthi was sold at Rs 80-Rs 100 per kg, rose at Rs 140-Rs 160 per kg, malli (jasmine) at Rs 80-Rs 100 per kg, sampangi flower at Rs 300 per kg, jathi malli (royal jasmine) at Rs 300-Rs 360 per kg, and sentu malli (Arabian jasmine) at Rs 20