The kitchens of Chennai come alive every Easter with the comforting aromas of slow-cooked meats, spiced stews, and fragrant rice. The process begins at dawn: mutton marinated in turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, and roasted spices simmers for hours until tender, while biryani rice is layered with saffron and caramelised onions. Coconut milk infuses stews with richness, a technique borrowed from coastal traditions. By midday, the table transforms into a feast of flavours: golden chicken roasts glazed with tamarind, fluffy coconut rice speckled with cashews, and hot cross buns, their cross motifs, a nod to colonial bakeries.
Beyond a feast, the festival is a footnote in the city’s culinary archive. “Growing up in a Tamil Christian home, Easter Sunday always meant a table full of deeply cherished, home-cooked dishes,” shares Juhina Sabrina Samuel, founder of Sincerely Sabrina Preserves & More. She recalls her childhood meals — mutton biryani, chicken roast, and coconut rice, served with love and joy.
For Bridget White-Kumar, cookbook author and Anglo-Indian cuisine chronicler, Easter brims with warm memories. “After church, a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausages, and seasonal fruit marked the end of Lent — like going to ‘food Heaven’,” she says. Lunch once centered on lamb roast, symbolising the sacrificial lamb, but practicality now favours biryani or spiced rice dishes. “Easter celebrations in India are now less Western, similar to Christmas but smaller,” she notes. One dish still anchors her table, Almorth, a mixed meat and vegetable stew. “It’s a very old Anglo-Indian recipe, eaten with bread or rolls. My mother made it with beef, mutton, pork, and veggies simmered in spices and coconut milk,” she says.
A culinary fusion
This blend of flavours traces to colonial kitchens. Chef Sujan Mukherjee of Taj Coromandel explains, “Anglo-Indian food (food under the colonial influence within the community of Anglo-Indians) didn’t emerge overnight — it’s centuries of cultural exchange.” This Anglo-Indian cuisine dominates the Easter celebrations. Dishes like mulligatawny soup and prawn cutlets reflect British refinement meeting Indian heartiness. Colonial echoes linger in Chennai’s Tamil Christian homes during Easter. “Bread pudding, coconut cake, and baked meats, all trace back to Anglo-Indian influence,” says Oscar C Nigli, former MLA and Anglo-Indian Association leader. “Fine China and ceremonial serving styles blend Western grace with South Indian soul.” He continues, “The tradition of using fine china and serving courses with an almost ceremonial grace speaks to a legacy that blends Western sensibilities with South Indian soul.”
Take, for instance, Easter eggs. Once the domain of real eggs dyed with food colour to symbolise Christ’s resurrection, today eggs are more likely to be made of marzipan or chocolate, representing life and rebirth. For Rachel Nigli, HR manager at MSC Agency, these new iterations of the classic Easter egg bring joy to children, with hidden treats inside. “Easter eggs are about sweetness and surprise. You just can’t replicate that with a potato!” Rachel laughs, dismissing the idea of swapping Easter eggs for potatoes — an idea that made headlines recently.
Modern meals, lighter feasts
In the past, these meals were elaborate affairs, stretching from breakfast to dinner. But, as with any tradition, change is inevitable. Modern life, with its hectic schedules and health-conscious mindsets, has redefined the Easter feast. “Over the years, some of the traditional items have been replaced or supplemented with modern dishes like pasta, grilled meats, or even cake — especially as younger people start hosting,” explains Joe Dattrin Terrance, a musician and software engineer. Today’s meals are more compact and less elaborate, yet still reflect the spirit of Easter.
Chef Sujan agrees. “Traditional Easter meals were heavy and rich, designed for a physically active lifestyle,” he says. “Today, we prefer lighter, fresher versions of those same dishes — less butter, more olive oil.” Lighter, healthier alternatives are now the norm, but the essence of Easter food, symbolic of renewal and togetherness, remains unchanged.
Availability of resources also makes people adapt to new ingredients. Traditionally, lamb, a symbol of Christ’s sacrifice, would be the centrepiece. Oscar says, “However, practicality made people change it to roast turkey, duck, or pork.” In their home, the tradition of roast meats continues, but with a distinct Anglo-Indian twist (Indian blend of herbs and spices). Bridget fondly recalls Holy Saturday bakery visits, Hot Cross Buns on Good Friday, and Easter egg hunts with cousins. “It was fun breaking the Easter eggs to see what was inside,” she says. In her home, Simnel cake, roast meats, and chocolate eggs, remain woven into Easter menus — the unchanged colonial influences.
For many, the Easter feast is also a bridge to the past. “Food connects us to memories of those who are no longer with us, and to moments of joy from our childhood,” says Joe. As recipes evolve, there’s also a quiet but strong revival of traditional dishes. “Social media has helped people rediscover old recipes, especially among women,” says Juhina, noting how traditional recipes are often handwritten and passed down. These efforts help preserve the culinary heritage of Tamil Christian families and keep the bonds of family and tradition alive. Easter in Chennai is thus spiced with history, adapted for tomorrow, and steeped in memory.
Almorth: A vegetable and mixed meat stew (Anglo-Indian style)
Ingredients
Beef: 1/4 kg
Mutton/Lamb: 1/4 kg
Chicken: 1/2 kg
Pork: 1/4 kg
Carrots and beans (or any other English vegetables), chopped into medium-sized pieces
Potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters: 3
Chilli powder: 2 teaspoons
Turmeric powder: 1/2 teaspoon
Pepper powder: 2 teaspoons
Coriander powder: 1 teaspoon
Dry red chillies, broken into pieces: 4
Chopped garlic: 2 teaspoons
Cinnamon: 2 pieces
Cloves: 5
Onions, sliced: 3
Tomatoes, chopped: 2
Chopped mint: 2 tablespoons
Oil: 3 tablespoons
Salt to taste
Coconut paste or coconut milk: 3 tablespoons
Vinegar: 2 tablespoons
METHOD
Cut the meat, chicken, and pork into small pieces.
Heat oil in a pressure cooker or a suitable vessel. Add onions, cinnamon, cloves, broken red chillies, and chopped garlic. Fry until the onions turn golden brown.
Add all the cut-up meat, chilli powder, turmeric powder, pepper powder, salt, coriander powder, and tomatoes. Mix well and fry until the tomatoes turn to pulp.
Add mint and coconut paste, then mix well.
Add sufficient water and cook until the meat is soft. If using a pressure cooker, cook for 10 minutes (6 to 8 whistles).
Add the chopped vegetables, vinegar, and 2 more cups of water. Simmer on low heat until the vegetables are cooked and the gravy thickens.
Serve with bread, dinner rolls, hoppers, dosa, or idlis.
TRADITIONAL EASTER DISHES
Anglo-Indian Cuisine
Simnel Cake (spiced fruitcake with marzipan), Lamb/Mutton Roast (symbolising the sacrificial lamb), Almorth Stew (mixed meat and vegetable stew), Hot Cross Buns, Easter Eggs (marzipan/chocolate), Chicken/Pork Vindaloo, and Biryani.
Colonial Legacy
Baked meats (duck, turkey) with Indian spices, Railway Mutton Curry, Fish Moilee, and desserts like Bread Pudding.
Tamil Christian Cuisine
Mutton Biryani, Chicken Roast, Coconut Rice, Rose Milk Pudding, Watalappam (coconut custard).
Good Friday essentials
Uppu Kari: Salty meat curry with minimal spices
Tamarind Rice: Tangy rice, often without onions
Kanji & Chutney: Rice porridge with coconut chutney
(Meals are usually meatless or minimal.)
CULTURAL & RELIGIOUS SIGNIFICANCE
Symbolism: Lamb (sacrifice), Easter Eggs (resurrection), Hot Cross Buns (marked with a cross) and breaking Lenten fasts with celebratory meals.
Rituals: Midnight Vigil, Good Friday fasting with gruel, and Easter Egg Hunts.
Lenten Practices: Strict fasting, almsgiving, and communal preparation of dishes like tripe/bean soup (12 apostles symbolism).
Homemade Traditions: Peeling garlic with hymns, marinating meat collectively, and kitchen prayers.