Round tables draped in pristine linen, name cards marking each seat, and a soft hum of conversation set the tone for an evening of refined gastronomy at Park Hyatt on February 19. A projector screen stood at the front of the room, cocktails flowed effortlessly, and an intimate gathering of chefs, food writers, and industry connoisseurs prepared to unravel the mystery of umami — the elusive fifth taste that has long shaped culinary traditions across the world.
The evening commenced with a deep dive into the history and science behind umami. “We are born to like sweet taste and also umami,” a speaker noted. “It’s a subtle taste, not something you immediately recognise, but it lingers.” The discussion introduced glutamate, the compound responsible for umami, found naturally in tomatoes, mushrooms, aged cheeses, and fermented foods — ingredients that have quietly been enriching global cuisines for centuries.
This set the stage for a compelling conversation between Vir Sanghvi, celebrated journalist, and food writer, and Dr Ana San Gabriel, a leading researcher on umami. “The important thing to understand,” Ana explained, “is that umami must be layered with other flavours to truly shine.”
Vir followed with his perspective on Indian cuisine. “It’s unlike sweetness, which we identify immediately. My theory is that Indian food has always been umami-rich, but we never quite recognised it as such. Butter chicken, dal makhani — these aren’t traditional Indian dishes, but they became popular because of their use of tomatoes, which are packed with umami.”
He drew another parallel with Japanese cuisine in India. “Here, sushi rolls are often filled with cooked ingredients, sometimes spiced to suit the local palate. But what makes them a success? There’s a bowl of soy sauce, and before eating, people drown their rolls in it. And what is that? Umami.”
The conversation inevitably turned to Ajinomoto and the controversy surrounding MSG. “Many restaurants proudly claim ‘No MSG’, yet use ingredients rich in natural glutamates,” Vir pointed out, addressing the misconceptions that have long clouded public perception of the seasoning.
To demonstrate, each guest was presented with a small panda-shaped container alongside a sweet corn vegetable soup. “There’s no MSG in this soup,” the chef announced. “Add just a small dash of the panda MSG and see if you can tell the difference.”
As guests took a sip, murmurs filled the room. Some noted an intensified saltiness, others described a richer, almost meatier depth. “It’s more mouthwatering,” a guest observed. Another added, “There’s a lingering aftertaste.”
An audience member posed the inevitable question: “Is there a safe limit for MSG consumption?”
A doctor in attendance responded: “MSG is a safe additive in any quantity, as per good manufacturing practices. However, excessive amounts don’t taste pleasant — it’s only needed in milligram quantities to enhance flavour.”
Each course of the evening’s menu was crafted to highlight umami in its most refined form. The meal began with molagapodi ghee-poached crab idly (with a vegetarian alternative featuring drumstick marrow) and tamari chicken pepper fry atop furikake-crusted uttapam with tamarind and black garlic chutney (also available with mushrooms). The main course featured koji-cured off-the-bone goat shank uppu kari, while the vegetarian counterpart saw koji-cured jackfruit elevated with the same depth of flavour, both served alongside parotta and wakame salad. The experience concluded on a high note with miso cashew Mysore Pak, palm jaggery and pepper ice cream, and coffee brittle — a perfect balance of sweet and umami.
Chef Ajay Chopra reflected on how Indian cuisine has always been deeply rooted in umami, even if it was never identified as such. From slow-cooked dals to fermented batters and tomato-laden gravies, the flavour has long been an intrinsic part of the Indian culinary landscape. “Instead of asking how to introduce umami into Indian food, perhaps we should ask: what is India’s own word for umami?” he mused. Dishes like butter chicken, with its combination of tomatoes, butter, and aromatic spices, are umami powerhouses — explaining their universal appeal. With a growing understanding of flavour science, he believes that Indian cuisine will continue to embrace umami more consciously, incorporating techniques such as fermentation, curing, and the use of miso and koji in modern interpretations of traditional dishes.
As for MSG, while the discussion strongly favoured its safety, the debate isn’t entirely settled. Though regulatory bodies worldwide classify it as safe, lingering scepticism remains, especially among those who claim sensitivity to the additive. The evening left guests with much to think about — how umami shapes our food, where Indian cuisine stands in the conversation, and whether the perception around MSG will continue to evolve. It is sure that whether we’ve called it by name or not, umami has always been at the heart of great cooking.