As photos from Italian luxury brand Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 show in Milan flooded the Internet, one particular shot of a model sporting slippers that looked practically identical to the GI-tagged Kolhapuri sandals caught the eye of netizens. Watching these culturally-ubiquitous chappals worn by Indians across class and regional lines being sold by a foreign brand for a whopping `1.2 lakh soon led to accusations of cultural appropriation
Karnataka minister Priyank Kharge also took to social media to point out the state’s role in producing this distinctive style of footwear, with regions like Belagavi, Dharwad, and Bagalkot being major production hubs. As the stir continues to engulf Prada even after they admitted the source of ‘inspiration’ for their leather flat sandals, CE asks designers and stylists across the country: Do luxury labels elevate or exploit traditional Indian crafts?
Anupamaa Dayal, fashion designer
Many of India’s crafts are alive and thriving. They are easy to access, and not much official or legal framework surrounds them. This makes them an easy plunderground for larger luxury labels. This is also true of independent, smaller designers, as I recently experienced my label, Anupamaa, being a victim of plagiarism by an Argentinian brand. Exploitation cannot ever be considered elevation. Without acknowledgement and appreciation where it’s due, the intention of violation leaves poor energy all around. The Prada issue is a good opportunity for our policymakers to address the issue of appropriate protection.
Sreejith Jeevan, designer and founder of Rouka
When a design is inspired by a traditional craft, it deserves to be credited, and in the latest case, it’s not just another leather sandal. The resemblance to the Kolhapuri sandal is undeniable. Giving due credit and ensuring the local artisans behind such crafts benefit from it isn’t just respectful, it’s the ethical thing to do. While the current hype may bring indirect attention and possibly some benefits to artisans, it’s an incomplete form of recognition. The craft must be acknowledged for what it truly is.
Vino Supraja, ethical fashion designer and sustainability advocate
I don’t think the price tag is the issue here — luxury has its economy. The real concern is when heritage crafts, such as Kolhapuri chappals, are used without crediting the communities behind them. These are not just designs, they’re cultural legacies passed down through generations. If a global brand finds value in that, the artisans deserve to be part of the narrative, not as footnotes but as collaborators. The same applies to the wire baskets. I understand the appeal of their form and texture, but simply placing a luxury label on them without context erases their origin. Fashion has immense power to elevate, but actual elevation means acknowledging the hands that make, not just the name that sells.
Tina Vincent, fashion designer
I am happy that Indian craftsmen are getting a boost internationally, be it the chappal or the wire bag. Our artisans deserve recognition, and I am glad luxury labels are elevating our Indian artisans. I do not begrudge them and their price points because, as a company, they will have their campaigns and overheads, which make them an international brand to reckon with.
Jaya Kumari, personal stylist
What Prada did was exploit the craft. ‘Leather flat sandals’ does not give any credit to the community in Kolhapur that makes these products. Most luxury brands don’t. Recently, dupattas were being endorsed as Scandinavian scarves. They’ve been doing this with a lot of our clothing and crafts. Also, it’s a shame that our people don’t understand the significance of Indian crafts and textiles like Phulkari or Chikankari, opting for knock-offs or fast fashion brands. Instead of just expressing outrage at a brand, people also need to learn about these crafts and include a few of these in their wardrobes.
Akanksha Chhabra, co-founder of Pastels and Pop
On one hand, it’s incredible to see Indian designs influencing global fashion, especially a name like Prada. On the other, it’s disappointing to see that there was no acknowledgement of the origin of the craft and the communities that have kept it alive for generations. Kolhapuri artisans are hardly making any money out of the craft. When a brand like Prada does this, with a price of `1.2 lakh, the least they could do is speak about them on their platform. Unfortunately, this is not a rare case. Many such big luxury brands use our textiles without giving due credit. The latest controversy will act as a channel to address the issue collectively.
Asmita Marwa, designer
Ifeel luxury labels can elevate traditional crafts like Kolhapuris if they engage respectfully, crediting and compensating artisans fairly. When done right, it brings global recognition to age-old techniques. But without inclusion or acknowledgement, it borders on exploitation. Luxury isn’t just in the price, it’s in the craftsmanship, heritage, and soul. The question is: Are the artisans benefiting from this newfound value? It’s also a reminder for us Indian designers to celebrate, reinterpret, and give our crafts the spotlight they deserve.
Ashdeen Lilaowala, textile designer, revivalist & founder of Ashdeen
Working with craftspeople every day, it’s important to me that the people and the culture behind the craft get credit and benefit monetarily. The Kolhapuri chappal is such a beautiful example of Indian minimalism and design that has global relevance. I am certain there are many such crafts which will gradually make it to the global stage, and we must prepare with a long-term, more strategic approach.
Mayank Modi, fashion designer
Indians had almost forgotten Kolhapuri chappals, and now, with the Prada show and surrounding controversy, they may think, ‘Why not wear them too?’ I don’t blame the label because designers need inspiration for their work. We get inspired by the tuxedos, while it is the bandhgala jacket for international designers. It’s alright as long as proper credit is given to the origin, and since that has been done now, the Indian footwear makers should enjoy the publicity.
Ramesh Menon, fashion consultant
What Prada has done is brilliant in its way. The online uproar over them not crediting the craft isn’t entirely valid, unless they had called it a ‘Kolhapuri chappal’, which they didn’t. So, accusing them of appropriation needs a closer look. Many Indians have worn Kolhapuris for decades without knowing much about the craft. If anything, Prada’s version has reignited attention. This can be used constructively. Ironically, many Indian brands have already been producing Kolhapuri-inspired footwear without involving traditional artisans, and often sell it under completely different names. Why this outrage when a Western luxury house does it?
Swathi Matam, designer
When luxury labels sell Kolhapuris for over a lakh, it depends on how it’s done. If artisans are fairly paid, acknowledged, and made part of the process, it becomes a powerful way to elevate the heritage. It shows the world the real value of Indian craftsmanship. But if the craft is used just for profit, without credit or benefit to the makers, it becomes exploitation. We believe luxury and tradition can coexist only when artisans are respected, empowered, and made part of the journey. True luxury is not just about price, it’s about purpose, people, and preserving culture.