There’s something about a hot plate of sambar-rice, a generous drizzle of ghee on top, and a side of crispy chicken fry or vendakka fry that takes us straight back to our school lunch breaks — elbowing friends for the last bite while debating whether Tamil Nadu mess sambar was superior to Udupi-style sambar. Some of us are purists, sticking to our grandmother’s recipe, while others (like me, fully prepared for judgment) have a soft spot for the slightly sweet Karnataka sambar. A little jaggery with my dosa? Absolutely.
South Indians claim sambar like it’s their birthright, and rightfully so — it’s on every menu, in every home, and probably running through our veins at this point. But what if I told you that there’s a myth that suggests this beloved dish was actually invented for a North Indian king?
Legend has it that in the 17th century, King Shahaji of the Thanjavur Maratha dynasty wanted to whip up a batch of amti dal, a Maharashtrian staple. The problem? Kokum, the usual souring agent, was nowhere to be found. So, like any good cook on MasterChef, he improvised — swapping in tamarind instead. The result? A rich, tangy lentil stew that was allegedly served to his cousin, Chhatrapati Sambhaji, inspiring the name sambar (or Sambhache Ahar — Sambhaji’s food).
A fun story, sure. But is it true? Hard to say. Food historians argue that sambar, or at least its huli (spiced tamarind-lentil stew) equivalent, existed in Karnataka long before Shahaji’s kitchen experiments. So, while we can appreciate a good royal origin tale, south India was probably already simmering up versions of this dish before a Maratha king took the credit.
The great sambar debate
Every South Indian state has a different take on sambar, and every household swears theirs is the best. They’re all correct, of course, because every mother’s sambar is objectively the best. At the end of the day, sambar isn’t just a dish - it’s a personality trait. Whether you like it thick or thin, tangy or sweet, one thing is for sure: there’s no wrong way to eat it.
For those of us who aren’t bound by generational bias, let’s take a quick tour of the sambar spectrum — plus, a few recipes to try at home from the natives.
Tamil Nadu: The OG Arachuvitta Sambar
Tamil Nadu’s version is thick, rich, and made with freshly ground masala — none of that store-bought nonsense. This is the one that hits different at weddings, temples, and anywhere someone’s serving it with hot ghee on rice. Just bold flavours, perfectly balanced tanginess, and that one uncle saying, “Inga sambar vera level da!”
Here is Chitra Paati’s Kumbakonam sambar
“The secret? Freshly ground masala and not letting anyone else stir the pot.” – Chitra, 75, keeper of family recipes.
Ingredients:
• Toor dal: 1 cup (cooked until soft)
• Tamarind: 1 lemon-sized ball (soaked and pulp extracted)
• 1 small brinjal, 1 drumstick, 1/2 cup yellow pumpkin (or any combo of veggies)
• Mustard seeds: 1 tsp
• Curry leaves: 1 sprig
• Asafoetida: 1/4 tsp
• Dried red chillies: 2
• Ghee: 1 tbsp (for finishing touch)
For the sambar powder:
• Coriander seeds: 1 tbsp
• Chana dal: 1 tsp
• Fenugreek seeds: 1/2 tsp
• Dried red chillies: 2
• Peppercorns: 1/4 tsp
• Grated coconut: 1 tbsp
Method:
1. Dry roast the sambar powder ingredients, grind into a fine powder.
2. Heat oil, temper mustard seeds, curry leaves, and red chillies.
3. Add vegetables, tamarind pulp, salt, and turmeric. Cook until the vegetables are soft.
4. Stir in cooked dal, ground masala, and a pinch of jaggery (Paati’s trick). Simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Finish with ghee on top. Serve with hot rice, appalam, and your life will change.
Karnataka: The Slightly Sweet Udupi Sambar
Karnataka’s Udupi sambar is where things get a little divisive — it’s got a subtle sweetness, thanks to a pinch of jaggery. Raghavendra, an Udupi restaurant chef, defends it passionately: “You people don’t get it — our sambar is balanced, refined. It’s an art.”
Raghavendra’s Udupi Sambar
Secret ingredients: Coconut, jaggery, and a more aromatic spice blend.
Best paired with: Crispy, golden-brown dosas or vadas.
Ingredients:
• Toor dal: 1 cup (cooked until soft)
• Tamarind paste: 1 tbsp
• Jaggery: 1 tbsp
• 1/2 cup diced pumpkin, 1 small brinjal, 1 drumstick
• Mustard seeds: 1 tsp
• Curry leaves: 1 sprig
• Dried red chilli: 1
• Asafoetida: 1/4 tsp
For the spice paste:
• Coriander seeds: 2 tbsp
• Cumin seeds: 1 tbsp
• Dried red chillies: 3
• Grated coconut: 1 tbsp
Method:
1. Roast and grind the spice paste ingredients.
2. Heat oil, temper mustard seeds, curry leaves, and red chilli.
3. Add the vegetables, tamarind, jaggery, and salt. Cook until soft.
4. Stir in cooked dal and the spice paste. Simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Serve with crispy dosas.
Andhra Pradesh: The Spicy Pappu Charu
Andhra folks don’t have time for thick, slow-cooked sambar. They prefer pappu charu, which is thinner, tangier, and packs a spicy punch. Amulya Chokkalingam from Vijayawada says, “It’s basically a hotter, better version of sambar. Sorry, not sorry.”
Secret ingredients: Tamarind, green chilies, and a suspiciously generous amount of garlic.
Best paired with: Hot rice and a serious appetite.
Ingredients:
• Toor dal: 1 cup (cooked until soft)
• Tamarind paste: 1 tbsp
• Green chillies: 2, slit
• Turmeric: 1/2 tsp
• Mustard seeds: 1 tsp
• Curry leaves: 1 sprig
• Garlic: 2 cloves, crushed
• Dried red chilli: 1
Method:
1. Heat oil, temper mustard seeds, curry leaves, and garlic.
2. Add green chillies, tamarind paste, salt, and turmeric. Let it simmer.
3. Mix in cooked dal and enough water to reach the desired consistency.
4. Serve with hot rice and a dollop of ghee.
Kerala: The Coconut-Laced Sambar
Kerala’s sambar is what happens when a dish gets the full spa treatment — aromatic, rich with coconut, and bursting with flavour from Varutharacha (roasted coconut) masala.
Prameela’s Varutharacha Sambar
“If your sambar doesn’t have roasted coconut, are you even from Kerala?” – Prameela, 60, Kochi’s unspoken sambar queen.
Ingredients:
• Toor dal: 1 cup (cooked until soft)
• 1 small raw banana, 1 drumstick, 1/2 cup ash gourd, 1 small carrot (or whatever’s in your fridge)
• Tamarind: 1 lemon-sized ball (soaked and pulp extracted)
• Mustard seeds: 1 tsp
• Curry leaves: 1 sprig
• Dried red chilli: 1
• Asafoetida: 1/4 tsp
For the Varutharacha (Roasted) Masala:
• Grated coconut: 2 tbsp
• Coriander seeds: 1 tbsp
• Fenugreek seeds: 1/2 tsp
• Dried red chillies: 2
Method:
1. Dry roast the masala ingredients until golden brown, then grind into a smooth paste with water.
2. Heat coconut oil, temper mustard seeds, curry leaves, and red chilli.
3. Add chopped vegetables, tamarind pulp, and salt. Cook until vegetables are tender.
4. Stir in cooked dal and the roasted coconut paste. Simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Serve with Kerala matta rice, pappadam, and pazhampori (because yes, some of us love that combo).