While pancakes, avocado toast, and matcha smothie flood your Instagram feed as quick breakfast options, nothing feels as comforting as piping hot idlis with a side of sumptuous sambar and chutney or molaga podi.
“It is so comforting that when a newborn refuses the mother’s milk, our elders would grind idlis in milk or water and feed the child,” shares Eniyavan M, the man behind the origins of World Idli Day, celebrated on March 30, since 2015.
Eniyavan came to Chennai as a 27-year-old in 1997, determined to break free from poverty’s tight grip. After dabbling in several odd jobs, he decided to drive autorickshaws, a decision that changed his life. “My usual pickup was Chandra amma who used to sell idlis to local eateries. Idli business is such that it can be started by anyone anywhere. So, inspired by her, I started a business,” he says.
I came to Chennai to make a living. I started a business probably run by thousands more. The difference: I loved my job and wanted idli to get its due.
Eniyavan M
He began making idlis at his home in RK Nagar. “Unfortunately, the day I kick-started my business rains poured,” he says. “The area’s infrastructure was poor. There was no drainage system to channel the rainwater. Only when the sun came, the water would dry.”
The water entered his small house and soaked everything. The flooded kitchen damaged the idli steamer, the batter was spoilt, and a few essentials were drenched. Not letting this event affect his grit, Eniyavan repaired his steamer in 20-odd days and stood up again.
Soon, he started innovating this Indian staple. “My daughter wanted a pizza. So, I poured the idli batter into the steamer and added a few vegetables and spices. I served an elevated idli as a pizza and she loved it. Likewise, I added chocolate, pudina, and beetroot to the batter and fed my children. This way they eat homemade and healthy food,” he says. He also experimented with the batter — like grinding rice and urad dal with tender coconut water. “It is tasty and healthy,” he adds.
Idli creations In 2023, Eniyavan was invited to participate in the India Day celebrations by the Sita Indian Cultural and National Centre in Moscow. That was the year of millets. “Six of us were invited by the organising team. They worked with us and hosted an Idli Mela in that capital city.” In the same year, Eniyavan with his 2,500 plus idli varieties reached Dubai and Singapore to showcase them to international audiences.
On February 14, 2012, his catering company, customised a heart-shaped idli plates. Going a step further, he exhibited 1,000 idli varieties at Vivekananda Vidyalaya Junior College. As the word spread, around 14,000 people attended the event. This was his first step towards putting this staple on a global map. Amazed by how the humble idli could be shaped and innovated in different forms, Samayal Sangam president Rajamani declared March 30 as World Idli Day. This incident changed his life. Since then, “I stay at natchathira (star) hotels, I am invited to colleges to deliver speeches, have built a house that has a pool area, educated both my kids and I am striving to bring out more variations,” he says.
Ahead of the 10th anniversary of World Idli Day, Eniyavan shares his plans to extend his business by starting hotels across the city. “My love for idli is giving me the freedom to reach places and recognises idli beyond just a breakfast option,” he concludes.