I tried recreating Cassie Howard’s iconic 4 am skincare routine from the series Euphoria for a week, and honestly? I was thriving. My skin had never felt so pampered — I was layering serums like my life depended on it, massaging in moisturiser like I was in a Vogue Beauty Secrets video, and staring at myself in the mirror with the exact level of manic energy Cassie had before absolutely ruining her life.
But by Day 4, things took a turn. My skin started peeling in places I didn’t even know could peel. I woke up one morning looking less like a dewy goddess and more like I had lost a fight with my exfoliator. Turns out, mixing every skincare acid under the sun without knowing what they do is not self-care — it’s just a recipe for irritation, redness, and questioning your life choices.
The good news? Acids can work wonders — when used correctly. Before you start layering products like you’re conducting a science experiment, let’s break it all down.
The confessions: When skincare goes wrong
Shravya Kannan, a blooming architect, says, “I have oily skin, and I kept seeing people say glycolic acid is a miracle exfoliator. I found a 10% glycolic acid toner and used it every day. A week later, my skin was red, peeling, and my mum thought I had an allergic reaction. Turns out, I was supposed to start slow. No one told me that!”
Adi M, an MBA student, admits, “My skin wasn’t terrible, but I was breaking out here and there, so I thought I’d go all in. I used salicylic acid in the morning and retinol at night…except my skin went into full revolt. Red patches, irritation, and now I have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that I’m still trying to fix.”
Influencer in the making, Kalpana Viji shares her experience: “Let me just say, there is a fine line between ‘glow’ and ‘orange-tinted disaster.’ I didn’t know niacinamide and vitamin C don’t always work well together, so I slathered them both on. My skin turned slightly yellow, and I panicked. It went away, but I felt like an Oompa Loompa for two days.”
The acid glossary
Let’s get into the actual chemistry class part (minus the boring formulas). Different acids work for different skin concerns, and here’s what you need to know.
Dr Deepika Lunawat, a dermatologist specialising in skincare and treatments, breaks down the best way to use acids without wreaking havoc on your skin. For beginners, she recommends starting with milder acids like lactic acid, which brightens, exfoliates, and hydrates the skin, or hyaluronic acid, known for its hydrating and anti-ageing properties. PHAs like lactobionic acid and gluconolactone are also great for sensitive skin, as they offer gentle exfoliation. If you’re looking for something stronger, glycolic acid is the most popular AHA, but Dr Deepika advises starting with a percentage lower than 10% to avoid irritation. Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, is an excellent choice for acne-prone skin, as it helps unclog pores. Ferulic and ascorbic acids act as antioxidants that protect and brighten the skin, while mandelic acid, another AHA, is a less irritating alternative to glycolic acid.
Dr Deepika suggests starting slow: “Begin with once or twice a week at night and gradually build it up, as long as there is no redness, irritation, or dryness. Over time, acids can be used daily.”
That being said, there are a few common mistakes people make when incorporating acids into their routine. According to Dr Deepika, the biggest ones include using too many acids together, starting with a high concentration in the hopes of seeing faster results, neglecting sunscreen (especially because AHAs increase sensitivity to UV radiation), and skipping moisturiser.
There are also certain acids that should never be mixed. Salicylic acid shouldn’t be combined with any other acid, as it increases irritation. Glycolic or lactic acid mixed with ascorbic acid cancels out the latter’s benefits before they even start working. AHAs and retinol together lead to extreme dryness and irritation, while BHAs and benzoyl peroxide are far too harsh and can damage the skin barrier.
However, some ingredient pairings work surprisingly well together. Ferulic acid combined with vitamin C and E creates a powerful antioxidant trio that protects the skin from UV damage. AHAs paired with ceramides and hyaluronic acid help counteract their drying effects, increasing tolerability. And hyaluronic acid alongside ascorbic acid makes for a great anti-ageing combination.
For those with sensitive skin, Dr Deepika advises taking extra precautions. “Start in the evening,” she says, “And use it sparingly — just a few days a week or even once a week.” Always patch-test new products before full application, begin with a low concentration, and choose products with a lower pH (between 3-5) to minimise irritation. Sunscreen and moisturiser are non-negotiable, and most importantly, “listen to your skin.”
Disclaimer: Skincare is not one-size-fits-all, and everyone’s skin reacts differently to active ingredients. This guide is for informational purposes only and should not replace professional advice. Before adding new acids to your routine, consult your dermatologist or a skincare expert to find what works best for your skin type and concerns. Always patch-test products and introduce them gradually.
Dr Deepika also clears up one major skincare myth:
“Most medical articles on acids in dermatology do not include niacinamide, retinol, or peptides as acids — so that’s something to keep in mind when discussing acid-based skincare.” Based on a new school of thought, it’s now considered safe to combine niacinamide with vitamin C, she adds.
If you’re staring at your bathroom shelf like it’s a chemistry lab, you’re not alone. We’ve all been there — standing in front of a mirror at 1 am, wondering if that new serum is going to make us glow or give us a rash that requires medical intervention.
But, skincare doesn’t have to be this complicated. Start slow, mix wisely, and when in doubt, moisturise. Because at the end of the day, we’re all just trying to look effortlessly radiant — without actually having to try that hard.
Now go forth, glow, and for the love of good skin, read the ingredient list before slathering stuff on your face.