Traditional Indian recipes aren’t merely meals, but heirlooms of flavour and memory — where spices are added by instinct, not by measure, and each dish is perfected over decades of religious practice in kitchens.
Collecting and sourcing these recipes from across India’s humble kitchens was a relatively easy task for Sarika Gupta when compared to translating instinct into exactness. But through perseverance, she says, she managed to not only write an entire book with over 100 vegetarian recipes on her phone, but to have her first edition be completely sold out.
Now, out with the second edition of 28 States 28 Plates, Sarika says, “I spent so many hours in my kitchen, perfecting the measurements and adjusting the taste of each dish. I must have prepared every recipe four to five times.”
Across the book’s 375 pages are striking pictures that are well composed, making it seem as though they were professionally shot in a studio. But that wasn’t the case. The pictures were neither shot in a studio, nor by a professional. Sarika learnt photography and captured all the 160 dishes by herself, at home. “They were all shot on my iphone 13,” she declares.
From Portuguese-influenced Goan bread called Poee, indigenous produce-based recipes such as Kokum Chutney, cultural hits like Chidambaram Katrikayi Gosthu, to foods that have evolved due to socio-political factors such as the Congress Kadelekayi, 28 States 28 Plates finds a place for them all.
“I have travelled all over the country and lived in different cities; thanks to my husband’s transferable job. I have lived in Maharashtra, Jammu & Kashmir, West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, and Kerala. Everywhere I went, I would learn recipes from my neighbours and friends,” Sarika says. She had a collection of recipes, put together carefully over 25 years of her life and so, the next natural step for her was to publish these recipes.
With the world seeing a voluntary shift to more plant-based, vegetarian diet options, this book finds its place, effortlessly, in terms of rlevance, Sarika adds.
What stands out in this book are a few interesting parts of history that gave birth to distinct dishes. The Congress Kadelekayi (masala peanuts), Sarika writes, were introduced by a bakery owner in Bengaluru to manage losses, after a quota system (rationing) for all-purpose flour was introduced, affecting bakery businesses, during the Congress party declared Emergency period (1975-77).
Another recipe — the MLA Pesarettu, a dosa with upma filling, is a story served warm. The dish was born inside the canteens of the Legislative Assembly in Hyderabad, she writes. The MLAs would order it off the menu, and it eventually garnered widespread attention, she adds.
The collection mainly features familiar dishes from every state, that are more-or-less staple foods. Be it Kerala’s appam and vegetable stew, Maharashtra’s dhadpe pohe, Punjab’s Amritsari kulcha, or Sikkim’s momos, the focus has largely remained within the realms of home-cooked recipes. Preserving such recipes, rich in family traditions and cultural significance, are at par with preserving our diverse identity. That also seems to be Sarika’s attempt with this cookbook.
Pepe Plastic Chatney from West Bengal
Ingredients
Raw papaya (grated): 1 cup
Sugar: ½ cup + 2 tbsp
Salt: ½ tsp
Nigella seeds: ½ tsp
Chilli flakes: ½ tsp
Lime juice: 1 tsp
Water: ¾ cup
Cashew nuts/almonds: 8
Method:
Grate raw papaya into thick shreds. Chop nuts roughly.
Put everything (Except lemon juice) together in a small but heavy pan and cook on medium low heat for about 15 minutes.
Keep stirring every 2 minutes and continuously towards the end.
The chatney will be ready when the papaya turns transparent and is soft to eat. Remove from heat and add lime juice.
Serve with Radhabhallavi, masala pooris, or masala paranthas.
Patal ki Chutney from Chattisgarh
Ingredients
Tomatoes: 2 or 3 nos
Green chillies: 2 nos
Coriander leaves: a handful
Garlic: 4 big cloves
Salt: ½ tsp
Method:
Chop green chillies and tomatoes roughly.
Saute green chillies in oil and add the tomatoes. Season with salt.
Cover and cook till the tomatoes are mushy.
Add finely chopped coriander leaves — make adjustments in the taste and serve.