Manish Malhotra, 52, has gained the reputation of being the Mr Congeniality of the fashion industry. And that’s exactly the person we get to chat with, as he juggles between the reopening of his largest ever store in Delhi (15,000 sqft), the launch of a flagship space in Hyderabad and last-minute fittings for the opening day of the Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW).
"Just because you’re famous, doesn’t mean you don’t lead a hectic lifestyle. Fame is a good feeling, but not the ultimate feeling. That place I will only reserve for my work.”
This statement falls in line with how Malhotra has refused to be pigeonholed as a costume designer and has recently added verticals of jewellery and home décor to his luxury brand.
“In my 29 years of experience as a designer and costume stylist, I have had the opportunity to work with actors like Urmila (Matondkar) and Karishma (Kapoor), who were not known for their style but are now fashion icons.”
Tracing a connection through the various ventures that Manish has embarked upon, we follow the couturier’s renowned design story, get a sneak peek of his LFW collection for a rapid-fire session.
Your contemporaries in the industry have had a head start when it comes to launching into jewellery and home décor lines.
You can’t always pioneer everything (laughs). Given the person I am, I don’t usually start something until I’m completely sure. But I’ve been so caught up with fashion shows, movies and weddings that I haven’t been able to put it together.
Isn’t the launch of two sprawling storefronts when brick-and-mortar retail is in question, a big risk?
I have always been inspired by the big international fashion houses like Saks Fifth Avenue and Dolce & Gabbana. They have everything, from lingerie to perfume. Having a complete store allows you to experience the whole mood of the label. I am also working on a younger prêt brand and Manish Malhotra shoes. Essentially, all verticals will come together to create an entire look. It could even mean designing lingerie.
Tell us about your collaboration with Raniwala for the jewellery line which you have curated.
As a costume designer, I’ve always created jewellery along with the garments for the movies. I used to design trinkets for actors, by putting together matching beads and little crystals to complement the clothes.
Raniwala 1881 has a profound technical understanding of jadau jewellery and is a credible name in the industry. For starters, I have curated a collection that can be paired with my clothes.
The very first chapter pays tribute to heritage jewellery making and captures the beauty of handcrafted jadau with an expansive range of chandbalis, danglers, studs, jhumkis, kadas, chokers, and layered necklaces.
Going forward, when I design there will be a lot of uncut stones and polki, mixed with diamonds and coloured gemstones.
What is the concept and mood board of the home décor line?
The entire collection is integrated into the stores, where each room will present a new element through colours, textures, silhouettes and dimensions. The retail space mirrors my drawing-room, at large.
The base colours are beige, white and ivory with accents of wine, olive, ochre and my signature shade, gold.
I hate clutter and so there is a lot of breathing space with fresh flowers where the furniture and furnishing – carpets and large art pieces made from embroidery.
You’re opening the Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive ’19. Give us a peek.
The Millennial Exuberance collection expansively compiles diverse fabrics – wool, cotton and silk. I’ve stepped away from the warmer hues of red and used shades of white, ivory, beige, ochre, grey, salmon and gold.
For the collection, we have a lot of Kashmiri hand-embroidery and intricate threadwork. Keeping with my signature style, the garments will have sequin sheathing, ivory threadwork, sheer play, web floral motifs and layering.
Flowy skirts, gowns, crop tops, and long tapered tops for women and sharp-tailored jackets and bandhgalas for men will be part of 75 ensemble collection to be presented at the landmark, Famous Studio.
Among all the other roles you have taken on, you are set to turn producer.
When I was in college I knew I always wanted to work on movies. The choice was between being film director or designer.
Now that I’m completing 30 years as a costume designer next year, I think it is time to revisit the drawing board.
| Quick takes: One thing no one should wear? Anything that makes them uncomfortable. Style icon for all time? There are so many, but the one among us is Rekha. Just the fact that she dresses up and continues to enjoy it is fabulous. Favourite keepsake? The letters filled with blessings from my mother. One item you cannot live without? My phone. |