For us Dilliwalas who spent a majority of their lives in the national capital but chose to migrate to “greener-quieter environs” like Noida (which it no longer is), the indulgence we sorely miss is the food spread. Delhi, especially the Walled City that has forever been a foodie’s delight – chhole bhature, chaat, samosas, kachoris, paranthas, kebabs, kulfis and much, much more…
So when an old friend, food historian Osama Jalali, who curated the Dastan-E-Dilli Food Festival at Radisson Blu MBD Noida, invited me to sample the dishes he, along with the Executive Chef Ritesh Negi, had shortlisted for the 10-day event, I couldn’t refuse. After all, one needs to navigate through the narrow, crowded alleys, lanes and bylanes of Old Delhi to enjoy these lip-smacking delicacies, while the hotel in Sector 18 is easily approachable.
“It is our pursuit to bring back lost Mughal recipes like kebabs, biryani, gosht and mouth-watering desserts among other delicacies to our patrons,” says Jalali, talking about the food festival. The spread at Radisson included non-veg starters – Seekh Kebab Chicken, Seekh Kebab Mutton, Shammi Kebab and Fish Ki Shami as well as veg ones – Besan Phulki, Kathal Ke Kebab, Veg Seekh and Paneer Tikka. Even as we, my friend and me, enjoyed these delightfully delicious starters, Jalali informed us that the spread served during the Dastan-E-Dilli Food Festival includes dishes cooked in Old Delhi homes. “The dishes are part of a cyclic menu which gets changed every two days during the festival. These are not served at any restaurant,” says Jalali.
Even as the conversation regarding the food keeps going, we help ourselves to the main course – Chana Dal, Aloo Methi, Bhindi Ka Salan, Paneer Korma (veg) and Aloo Keema, Aloo Gosht, Murgh Ishtoo, Gobhi Gosht, Murgh Korma, Nihari and Shabh Deg Kofta (non-veg). Each looked so tempting in the traditional degs (large brass vessels) that we both decided on having a portion of each. While I opted for Veg Ki Tahri and Khamiri Roti, my friend preferred Mutton Biryani and Naan.
Each dish tasted as if it was prepared by your mother or grandmother. “It seems so because my mother and wife help me in making these dishes. They enter the kitchen with me at nine in the morning and we end at around 11 every night. My mom who hails from Rampur learnt most of her cooking from the royal khansamas (cooks) of the nawabs. But she adapted to the Old Delhi cuisine after marriage to my father who used to be one of the few doctors in the Walled City in the 1980s,” shares Jalali, adding he and his wife continue their research to keep themselves updated about lesser known recipes that once existed.
Ask Jalali why do each of these dishes in Old Delhi contain so much ghee and he quips, “It has been done on purpose. When Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan moved the capital from Agra to Shahjahanabad (present-day Delhi), his hakims informed him that the water from River Yamuna is not suitable for cooking so there was a need to add more masalas into each of the dishes. And to digest these masalas, plenty of ghee had to be used. So, the khansamas of Mughal kitchens used this trick while the cooks of Hindu communities like baniyas and kayasths invented chaat which was loaded with spices and chillies. It was the need of the hour back then.”
As much as I wanted Jalali to keep on talking, it was time to leave. But not before having a quick round of Phirnee and Chawal Ka Zarda for dessert. After all, Dilliwalas relish delicious food, and I am no exception!