Let us time travel to medieval ages. Persian soldiers invented what we know today as succulent kebabs wherein the preparation was simply sticking the meat on their swords and roasting it in open fire. Fast forward to the 1920s. Peshawar in Pakistan saw innovation in kebabs with the invention of Tandoori Chicken. Now, move a few years ahead to 1947: The year India gained Independence and the year when restaurateur Kundan Lal Jaggi, one of the founders of Moti Mahal Restaurant in Delhi, “invented” the flavoursome Butter Chicken by using leftover Tandoori Chicken in a tomato-based gravy.
This is an example shared by Amit Bagga, co-founder and CEO, Daryaganj in Aerocity, of an ancient cuisine being modernised over time. There are a lot of examples like this where ancient delicacies are now being tweaked — given a new touch and twist. The reasons are many, say chefs introducing these innovative dishes in their menu. Chutney Bar+Tandoor at The Metropolitan Hotel & Spa offers artistically curated Tomato Pimento Shorba in which pimento is added to the usual tomato shorba for a tangy taste.
“The changing food habits and global cultural exchange has led chefs to experiment with the cuisine. Modern techniques and service standards have also been the reason for this evolution,” says Om Nayak, chef and co-founder, The Pasta Bowl Company. “Moreover, the competitive F&B environment requires chefs to constantly deliver innovative and unique dishes. So, even while we embrace the future, we need to understand and respect the traditional processes,” he informs.
Chef Nayak adds that a chef must use traditional ingredients and present it in a modern way as this helps in establishing a cuisine globally while not compromising on its authenticity. “This way the origin remains alive,” he says.Bagga elaborates, “In this fast-growing era of restaurants introducing fusion cuisine, new flavours, modern plating and gastronomical delights, it is imperative to stay relevant and fresh yet true to our roots.” He adds it has become important to reinvent some dishes as customers are always looking for a new element.
Chef Nitin Bhardwaj, of Kampai at Aerocity, agrees. “I also feel this is more owing to public demand.” But he is quick to add that it has also to do with chef’s personnel approach. “Different chefs and food handlers have different approaches to the modernisation of ancient cuisine. Their creativity, imagination and past experience with a particular region’s cuisine helps them to recreate it in a better way. However, it only works when your basics are right,” he explains.
However, the challenge is to ensure that the real essence of the original dish is not lost. “We have stuck to authentic recipes and presentations. Our main aim is to extend nostalgia,” says Bagga, to which Chef Nayak adds, “Earlier, there were prolonged cooking techniques. Ingredients had to be prepared. Cooking techniques have evolved over time and ingredients and sauces are readily available which saves time and cost. The presentation has to be in sync with the present-day trends.”
So, are restaurants offering “pure and authentic” ancient dishes?
“Of course, they are. In fact, ancient ingredients have made a big comeback and famous dishes of the past are taken to the next level with a new spin. Chefs nowadays try to dig for ancient recipes and present them in most appetising ways,” says Chef Nayak.