Untouched by the influences of the West, Myanmar's culture and cuisine continues to be creative and rooted in history. Burma Burma, a chain of restaurants that seek to provide authentic Burmese cuisine in India, has translated the local experiences of Myanmar into their latest menu ‘Small Plates’. The special menu that was launched on Wednesday draws inspiration from the bustling markets and diverse cultures of Myanmar. Nivedita (20), a Civil Lines-resident and The Morning Standard reader, accompanied us for this food tasting.
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Ankit Gupta, co-founder of Burma Burma, shared the thought behind designing ‘Small Plates’, saying, “Burma is really diverse. We had the opportunity to visit the remote villages and towns of Burma where we captured some great stories. The people of Burma served us stories, ingredients, dishes, and we had to bring them here. We couldn’t implement it in the last three years because of the pandemic. But now as things have opened up, we wanted to bring what we had captured back then to the restaurant.”
A slice of culture
When we reached the restaurant in South Delhi's Select Citywalk on Wednesday, we found ourselves in a rather quaint setting. The tables were decked with flowers and candles, and live music added to the revelry only to create a comfortable ambience. However, we felt that adding a hint of Burmese cultural elements to the décor would have complemented the theme, only to elevate the entire experience. “Everything looks pretty and intimate, but I would have preferred it more lit, more rusty, and local,” commented Nivedita.
The vegetarian menu comprising nine dishes offered diverse flavours for one to relish. “The menu is inspired by an evolving Burma. We have seen Burma right from the days when there were sanctions and how the country opened up. That’s what we have tried to portray in our menu,” shared Ansab Khan, chef.
We started our feast with Taro Shells with Spiced Black Bean, which has to be one of the finest dishes on the menu. Taro—it is a tropical plant grown extensively in Myanmar—has been used to create a Taco-like shell, which is later filled with a mixture of black beans, coconut cream, and smashed avocado. Both the presentation and the Burmese cuisine-inspired taste surprised us for good. “I love how there’s just the right amount of filling in the shell. Despite the sauces, it does not flow out and the filling just melts in your mouth,” shared Nivedita.
Rice—which is Myanmar’s staple food, is a major ingredient in almost every dish—apart from broccoli, another recurring ingredient in this menu. However, the way the latter has been paired with a variety of ingredients is what made this rather boring leafy vegetable interesting. The Steamed Rice Paper Parcels (made with quinoa furikake seasoning) served with charred vegetable dashi (a kind of stock used in soups) offers a confluence of flavours, and is hence, a fascinating dish to try out. Talking about the seasoning in this dish, Khan explained, “We have used native ingredients but used them in a different way to make a fun menu. Hemp and poppy are used a lot in Burma, and we have made a seasoning out of them as a form of experimentation.” However, the Broccoli and Nokeh cheese failed to impress us. While the sour cheese and Malar sauce complemented this dish well, the boiled broccoli failed to create an impact. “I love the sauce. The cheese tastes were great too, but I would have preferred something more in this dish. It feels slightly incomplete,” commented Nivedita.
The Banana Flower Croquettes served with Kokum Creme was another highlight in this menu. The dish—it is inspired by the popular banana flower salad, and is a delicacy in Rakhine (a state in Myanmar)—is a successful experimentation that one must surely try. The crunchy surface of the croquettes coupled with the soft and moderately spicy filling is a taste to behold. The dish reminded Nivedita of the banana flower fritters their mother used to make when they were younger. “It is funny how I’d lament eating those pakodas but this actually tastes nice. I especially love this Kokum Creme. I think it complements the taste of the croquettes really well,” they shared. The Pan Fried Rice Dumplings were equally delicious. Topped with raw papaya salad, the rice flour shells are filled with white pea and sesame. While we thought we could predict the taste of these dumplings, it actually awakened our taste buds thanks to the tactful preparation; we were definitely ready for more.
You will witness a juxtaposition of Indian and Burmese flavours in the Pyajo Kari, a dish that is made with crunchy lentil fritters dipped in spiced yogurt. The warmth and tanginess of this Burmese dish was presented with a desi (Indian) touch. When we spoke to the chef about this uncanny similarity in flavours, he explained, “This dish is prepared by the migrant Indian community that has settled in Burma. It is widely eaten in Rangoon [Yangon] where you have a lot of Indian people,” Roasted Poppy Potato served with Brussels Sprout too had a tangy indigenous taste to it. The Spiced Jack Meat Balls was the spicy component in this menu.
Our hearty meal ended with a saffron cheesecake. “I love the plating and how they have paired the cake with the ice cream. It is delicious,” concluded Nivedita. With many hits and a few misses, ‘Small Plates’ is a promising menu that not only offers a taste of Burma but also a distinctive experience.
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