There’s no better feeling than quenching your thirst with a chill glass of lemonade or a refreshing cooler during summer. However, with Delhiites becoming conscious about their health, aerated drinks have become a thing of the past.
A number of people have started embracing sustainability in every aspect of life, and both chefs and citizens in Delhi-NCR are now understanding the value of fresh native Indian produce. “Going local and seasonal has become the mantra now. Chefs and mixologists have acquired this route of using indigenous ingredients fairly well. It gives diversity and seasonality to the menu,” shares Tarun Sibal, chef and co-founder of Mayapuri-based boutique catering firm One Fine Meal.
A glass of taste and health
Homegrown chefs, such as Sibal, are going back to the past by introducing indigenous ingredients in summer drinks. “These drinks are not only refreshing; using seasonal produce also helps sustain agriculture initiatives,” adds Sibal.
Taking inspiration from RoohAfza—a concentrated squash made from rose petals—and Aam Panna, which is a drink made using raw mango pulp, people have started using indigenous fruits for beverages in both restaurants and homes. A few such native ingredients include wood apple (bael), mulberry (shahtoot), black currant (phalsa), among others. “Phalsa is mostly common in Delhi and Uttar Pradesh, and only available for three to four weeks a year. It has a nice tangy taste to it.
According to Ayurvedic texts, it cools the body and has healing effects on the heart,” mentions chef and author Sadaf Hussain from South Delhi. Shaman Pathania, mixologist and food and beverage executive of Crowne Plaza, Okhla, explains, “Since these fruits are seasonal and local, they are more fresh, tastier, and healthier.” Hussain adds, “Many summer coolers have a similar flavour profile. They are usually sweet and sour.” Be it the classic lemonade or sherbets, all these beverages have a tangy aftertaste. This is probably because in the summer heat, the sourness of the fruits helps retain sweat and regulates digestion.
A sense of nostalgia
Recalling childhood days, both Hussain and Pathania mention how their go-to summer drink remains the Aam Panna. While Pathania says that he likes the tangy taste of unripe mangoes with cumin and black salt, Hussain speaks of nostalgic memories of Bihar associated with the drink. “The Aam Panna at our home was slightly different. Instead of boiling the mangoes, we would roast it before extracting the pulp. That way, while the drink retained its tangy aftertaste, it also had a smoky flavour to it,” Hussain shares.
A number of beverage companies are now selling pre-mixes and drinks by making good use of the tried-and-tested nostalgia marketing. “It is a refreshing twist for patrons as these drinks evoke a sense of nostalgia. This could be a throwback to their childhood days or a flavour native to their hometowns,” concludes Pathania.