Fashion week season is back, and this time, the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) returns to the city of Mumbai after 16 years by partnering with Lakmé Fashion Week for FDCI x LFW—it is taking place at the Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, today. As part of their Emerging Talent in menswear, Delhi-based designer Gaurav Khanijo will showcase his collection ‘Into the Labyrinth’. We speak to Gaurav about his show, the plans he has for his brand Khanijo, and more. Excerpts…
When we spoke after your FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week show in March this year, I remember you mentioned what a toll the pandemic took on your business. But you did that show, and you will be presenting a show today. How have things changed?
I was very sceptical last time. It wasn’t something I was ready for and I had to consult a few important people before doing the show. I went to speak to one of my mother’s good friends, she is an astrologer (laughs), even though I don’t believe in numerology and all that. So yes… I went to that extent. The show really turned out to be good for me, and it was another starting point for me, in a way. I had gotten very disoriented during the lockdown... with my brand and the losses we all had suffered. But that show helped me boost my confidence. From then to now, we opened another store in 32nd Avenue, Gurugram. We are growing, we reshaped the brand... I think it was somehow a blessing in disguise to get back to it and reform the vision for myself and for the brand. Things have changed drastically for me, I am more confident with what I am doing and how I am doing it... also in perspective to the business that I bring into the brand. I have now broken Khanijo into three categories—‘Root’, which is ethnic, classic and timeless Indian wear; ‘Soul’, it’s leisure clothing with linens, khadi, hemp, and bamboo that is all holiday-friendly; and ‘Lab’, which is what I’m doing today.
The Greek aesthetic has been imbibed in fashion in multiple ways over the years. How have you used the labyrinth as a starting point for this collection?
I have always been really fond of artists like MC Escher [Maurits Cornelis Escher]. I studied more about MC Escher, who was a lithographer. His work has a lot of illusions, especially in his sketches, and that was very interesting. I got inspired by his work and I have done a few pieces with his signature Relativity drawings.
I studied the word labyrinth even deeper, which I had no idea came from a Greek word. Then I incorporated elements such as a lock, a key, how you are lost in a maze. I started making these aerial-view versions of a map and created my own little labyrinth, which we made prints out of. The cuts and silhouettes are not Greek in any way, but you will see the textures that we have done; they are hand-pleated—irregular pleats, lines, and twisted seams. We also created our own little maze ball-like buttons out of brass. So, we have put together a lot of things to make it work in a high, up-street wear vibe, which is what the ‘lab’ is for me... It has a dark and global palette. For the first time, I am doing a lot of blacks
and greys.
We have also kept in mind the modern man and how he is dressing at this point in time. Also, how these can work as great pieces in the wardrobe in the long run.
Escher’s work is very scientific even though it is design-oriented. How have you used that idea in your collection and was it difficult?
I think it was beautifully refreshing. We always love pattern-making and working with silhouettes. We are not avant-garde and want to keep our clothes wearable and comfortable. So, this was the next step for me to, sort of, push myself into a different line... It is like a chase that I’m on. I would love to see this transpire into something more global-appealing [in terms of] silhouettes, cuts, and colours.