An ode to Bikaner’s Usta art 

If Delhi-based label Jajaabor’s designers Kanika Sachdev and Neelanjan Ghosh had not visited Bikaner for a shoot, we would have never known of the existence of the usta art form. The exquisite art that has Persian roots, flourished in the Mughal era and beautifully intermingled with the marvellous architecture of Bikaner in ancient times. Today, it manifests its glory in the architecture of Bikaner’s Junagarh Fort’s Anoop Palace, Chandra Palace, Karan Palace and Phool Mahal. 

When Jajaabor’s team went to the Gaj Kesari Hotel in Bikaner for a shoot, found that usta artists of Bikaner do intricate wood carvings to shape a 3-D pattern, then paint it in exuberant colours, and add a splendid touch of gold that gives it a regal appeal. That was the moment when they were inspired to pay homage to usta with their collection ‘Wah Usta Wah’, their spring/summer ’22 edit. 

Extolling the history of the art form, Kanika and Neelanjan share with us that the art form originated around 600 to 800 years ago when Persian artisans were invited to design forts in Bikaner. “Like many other art forms, this too is languishing, since the younger generations don’t see themselves making enough through it. We felt it was important to spread its story.”

The celebrity label, which has been spotted on Sara Ali Khan, Taapsee Pannu, and Regina Cassandra, showed its collection at the FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week in March. Kanika and Neelanjan tell us about their design philosophy for this collection, “We believe that if we are comfortable in classic Indian silhouettes, then why can’t we design them in such a way that they can be worn on the streets of London or Paris? The question shaped our guiding philosophy for this collection.”

While the duo took inspiration from the usta art form, they wanted to convert that into something more contemporary. The designer’s inspiration then translated into making 3-D kind ensembles by using layering and cut work in designs. They used breezier fabrics like silk and chanderi, thus making the pieces lighter and suitable for the Indian summer. Rs 15,000 upwards