Nothing is banal when it comes to the Indian fashion landscape that’s always sprouting new ideas. At label Amit Aggarwal, all of this stands true. In fact, the ace designer births a design vocabulary that is in tandem with innovation, modernity, and green fashion. For the first, he showed how new-age design technologies like 3D embroideries, ribbing through the polymer, fine draping and pleating, possibly spearhead a sartorial revolution. In terms of modernity, he thrives with creations that are sassy. Most strikingly, the experimentative designer has turned the tides on the sustainability front by crafting couture from recycled waste with aplomb. On his 10-year anniversary marked with his new collection, ‘Pedesis’, the designer tells us about his influences, career, and evolution.
Metallics and mathematics
Amit’s aptitude in science and art coupled with his own natural interest in design shaped his career choice. “My father was an engineer. I used to see him work on projects and was curious about the layout of his mathematical blueprints, as a kid. My mother, on the other hand, wanted to be a doctor but she couldn’t become one, so she always wanted me to fulfil her dream. While I did not take it up, I was intrigued by biology and the study of organic life. Coming to design, my chacha (uncle) was an interior designer and worked with finer aesthetics in art. Altogether, such a family greatly shaped my aptitude for design.”
The designer’s influences in science and art subconsciously transpired with creations. His latest collection ‘Pedesis’ marries art with the science of engineering to construct armour-like forms. Showcased at the FDCI India Couture Week 2022 in Delhi, the collection was lauded for its portrayal of the modernisation of ikat. The ensembles portrayed abstract shapes and dazzled in the luminosity of fluid metallic colours. Telling us about the making process he shares, “The techniques used for the collection reflect the fluidity of time: from structuring our silhouettes through rubber cording to create armour-like forms to using draped fluid forms with tube pleating. In terms of fabrics, we have always married new-age materials with traditional techniques and further refined this approach in the collection.” In the latest collection, the polymer was first converted into yarn and then woven on the handloom to create a unique fabric.
Green with innovation
The designer is a force to reckon with, always keen on exploring cutting-edge technology that can produce low-waste creations. “I am a constant learner. I do not want to feel that just because I am old, I should stop imbibing knowledge about new trends, technologies, or concepts.”He adds, “With our design house, I aim to take risks and learn from my mistakes.” The designer is to be credited for introducing new-age sustainable materials. From discarded PVC, and glass fibre to polymer and plastic—his atelier knows how to convert them into stunning ensembles that reflect craftsmanship. He says, “They are sourced from industrial units where polymer comes to our atelier on a regular basis. It is processed into yarn and then handcrafted to create ensembles.”
New-age couture
For a long time, the occasion wear market has been flooded with pieces that score less on comfort and are more about sheer opulence. However, Amit’s creations are distinguished for their light-weight comfort, functionality, and contemporary designs. At the same time, they marry Indian craftsmanship that makes them heirloom worthy. In his design lexicon, the ensembles can be modern and yet be a reflection of culture transcending generations. “What I have been creating today is having wider acceptability, especially among the youth, which was not the case 10 years ago. Today, people have become more accepting of concepts like sustainability, functionality, and comfort.”
Celebrating diversity
Amit, who for a long time has been working with models that defy colourism, ageism, and gender binary—is more keen on working on diversity in an organic way. “I aim to celebrate every life form that exists. I do not think of particularly making an attempt to bring an alternate side of reality, be it in terms of gender, skin colour, or age. When I create something, I think of the emotions that person is feeling, so my ensembles are created keeping in mind the expressive side of the individual, not the social barriers that separate us. I do not wish to be called a champion of diversity and inclusion, it is part and parcel of the way I look at life. In my view, there is no alternate reality that exists, but rather, I hope to celebrate everyone in their guileless self.”