A spectrum of the choicest colours adorns markets as the winter season sets in. “Iss time pe subzi bechne mein maza aata hai,” exclaimed Rajesh, our neighbourhood subziwala, pointing at the fresh, varied winter produce that floods the market at this time of the year.
In turn, this also attracts eager buyers to haats and mandis—many feel seasonal produce as is better- sourced from markets, rather than from mundane online stores. From juicy red carrots, purple-hued turnips, slender radishes, and leafy greens like sarso, bathua and methi, to the plump green peas—the possibilities for dishes that can be made with them are endless.
Growing up, I’d help my grandmother spread julienned red carrots in the sun, along with cauliflower florets and turnips, to make the annual batch of the gajar-gobhi-shalgam achaar—an accompaniment that is intrinsic to Punjabi households. As kids, our school tiffins would reflect seasonal changes as well, with sandwiches or parathas stuffed with leftover subzi of gajargobhi- matar, aloo-gobhi, or macaroni tossed in with lots of sweet vegetables.
Then, there would be the quintessential meal of sarso ka saag that would be made in a large quantity, and then devoured in batches with fresh onion-garlic- tomato tadka. Steaming hot makke di roti is a compulsory accompaniment with it— marking essentials of harsh winters that the north is exposed to. For Gurugram resident Surabhi Sinha, it is the green peas that stand out. “We make chura-matar, matar ki ghugni, matar paratha and also enjoy the freshly-shelled peas as it is,” she shares.
The love for peas is, in fact, ubiquitous across the Indian winter. Called koraishuti in Bengali, it is used to make fluffy koraishuti’r kochuri with alu’r dum and is a favourite among the Bengali community. The peas are steamed, mashed and enhanced with masalas to make the stuffing for this maida- based kachori, which is then deep-fried and served with a spicy preparation of potatoes.
A delicacy that is largely saved for the winters to be savoured; ask anyone from Bengal about it, and they’ll jump with joy at the thought of it. Yet another similar Bengali winter favourite is the humble peyajkoli, the onion flower stalk. It is usually made into a bhaja (a shallow-fried style of cooking vegetables) with diced potatoes, tossed in mustard oil and nigella seeds.
Although the preparation is quite simple, the flavours are bold and it makes for an excellent accompaniment with a plate of dalchawal, or simply a paratha. In Uttar Pradesh, it is the matar ka nimona that tugs everyone’s heartstrings. The chunky stew is made by frying a paste of peas with masalas and newly-harvested potatoes, with wadis.
Those from the state in particular swear by it, and would often happily regale you with a nostalgic story or two about their childhood runins with the dish and how central it is to the kitchens of the hinterlands of UP, Bihar and Madhya Pradesh. In Mumbai, a city that’s almost comically bereft of winters, the shift in the season would largely be noticed through this change in what’s available in the markets. One would spot fresh green garlic and ponkh or hurda (a seasonal millet) in the bazaars.
Green garlic in the western part of the country is different from the one that we get here, up north. Tender yet robust, green garlic is young garlic that has been harvested before its cloves begin to mature. Interestingly, it is a key ingredient in Gujarat’s favourite winter delicacy— undhiyu. Further uses of it come in a wide range of chutneys, as well as garnishing of dishes.
Further, in the Bohra community, the kheema baida lasan is a favourite, as the season turns cold. In this preparation, the cooked kheema is spread out in a deep-bottomed dish, and is topped with lots of finely chopped green garlic. Then, eggs are broken into it, and topped with piping hot ghee that results in the eggs being cooked. Sounds delicious and indulgent, doesn’t it? Winter’s present robustly unique flavours that we otherwise miss in our everyday menus. It is this diversity that is crucial not just in terms of nutrition, but in helping us delve deeper into how unique India’s food landscape is. This helps us discover heirloom recipes, and long-lost secrets of generations gone by.