The collection of the Ashima Leena brand every season is strong on hand embroidery and colours dipped in a varied palette. Leena Singh, the founder and designer of the label, is all set to unveil her latest, ‘Nature’s Grove’, at the Lakmé Fashion Week partnered with the Fashion Design Council of India on October 15 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi.
The ‘Nature’s Grove’ collection is a tribute to Mother Nature—an array of stunning prints using bamboo, shells, tiny stones and dry leaves present a bouquet of nature’s bounty. The fabrics are a beautiful mix of drapy satins, silks and sheer organzas recalling breezy winds. The silhouettes are flowing saris and unstructured skirts, capes, loose bottoms, and quirky shirts—the sheer being a common note of the collection.
Excerpts of the conversation with the designer:
What inspires your latest collection, ‘Nature’s Grove’?
I’ve always been very close to nature. If you consider my shows over the last 33 years, that has been our signature—nature has an imprint on our ensembles, the jewellery and the inlay work. The brand is rooted deeply in the craft and heritage of the country. This time, the idea was to show the way the world has developed and people’s attempt to supersede nature. Look at how we construct buildings on serene hills! The ‘message’ of my work is that ultimately nature supersedes every other power. The collection was created with a colour synonymous with nature, green, besides ivory with a classic splash of gold. Textiles including velvet, chiffon, and printed silk created contrasting textures and illustrative floral designs along with more abstract patterns covered with tailored garments.
What are the Ashima Leena signatures in this collection?
We have done a lot of beautiful appliqué work, which looks like it has been printed on the fabric. We have worked with satin apricots on French necks. Appliqué work has always been a hallmark of our brand.
You have used raw materials in your designs like bamboo, stones, and dry leaves to depict the prominence of nature. Does that translate well as design?
The focus for us has always been purity of thought and the authenticity of the concept. We always try to strike a balance with that. I wanted a heavy blouse to be made using small stones and shells to give an essence of the sea. I have a collection of white and black through which I try to depict the dark and bright side of life. This is a luxury collection and the prints are lovely. There is one beautiful mustard and black and off-white collection in it and you will see a sari with the cape and a patti Patiala salwar with short cape pieces that speak of nature’s abundance.
Your designs are loved by Indians abroad. What role does networking play in this?
Well, I was the first designer to bridge the gap between India and the US. I get clients from across the globe, be it Gujarati clients from the US, or Pakistani clients from Chicago. As you know, I’m piloting the brand all by myself. It’s in my custody and Ashima retired about 10 years back. The name of the brand remains unchanged because we have been identified with it for 33 years. Each client has helped us take Ashima Leena forward; just like each brick helps create a building.
Who is your target audience and the showstopper for fashion week?
For me, my collection is the showstopper. I never allow any set design or a Bollywood personality to dominate my collection. In the past, we have worked with many actors such as Nargis Fakri, Huma Qureshi, and Sharmila Tagore among others. Aishwarya Rai had walked the ramp for my first show in 1993 before she became Miss Universe. Angad Bedi’s first-ever public exposure was on my show. Talking about the target audience for this show, my focus would be the global audience. They will be the buyers, my clients who have been loyal to me, and people attending and watching the show globally.
What is the place of embroidery in your work?
The brand has always been deeply rooted in the craft and heritage of the country. We are Indian in our thought process, yet modern and contemporary. For example, when I went to the US, a client asked me to make a blouse and a jacket in black. We did a Western look but I put a Kashmiri touch on the collar. The label’s aesthetic is not constant. One season, Kashmiri jamawar, appliqué work, tassels and trims take centre stage, while in another, printed gilets and angrakha dresses are in focus.
You have a good collection of bridal wear and clothes for families of both groom and bride. How do you go about it?
I get clients from abroad and meet them to discuss wedding outfits. Our brand is known for its bespoke bridal wear and remains popular among NRI clients. I work on wedding wear for the entire family of the bride and the groom. Be it a 7-year-old child or a 70-year-old father. Recently, I got an order for which I had to make 153 outfits.