The first encounter with Italian chef Riccardo Scaioli, the pizza maestro heading La Dolce Vita Week at L’Osteria Bella, turned out to be an adventure with the dough for TMS. ‘Shape a circle, press that centre using your fingertips,’ he says, so hands shaking, I dive in. After crafting the base, I jazz it up with tomato sauce and mozzarella and slide it into the pizza oven. Fast forward two minutes and a margarita pizza is ready which we top with fresh basil leaves. “For a first-timer, you did well,” says the chef.
Scaioli, 54, is from Padova, Italy. He has been a frequent visitor to India over the last decade, serving as a consultant to various chefs and restaurants and representing Le 5 Stagioni, an Italian flour brand. But it’s his first time supervising an Italian Food Week here alongside L’Osteria Bella’s Executive Chef Sumit Sabharwal. The event, a collaboration between the restaurant and Holiday Inn, Aerocity, promises a delightful dining experience featuring Italy’s famous liqueur, Campari, paired with the chef’s special menu. Following this, a two-day Pizza Palooza awaits diners, offering a chance to savour delicious pizzas alongside carefully selected wines. The week will culminate with a masterclass of pizza and bread tailored for professional chefs from Delhi’s top restaurants.
The Indian pizza
“I am excited to see how the events unfold. Even though I may disagree with how Indians prefer their pizza – with lots of chilli, tomato ketchup, and chicken toppings – I love India and its people,” says Scaioli. The chef says Indians love Italian cuisine mainly due to the variety of vegetarian options available though he finds the Indian market quite challenging. “Even among vegetarians, there are various preferences. Some avoid potatoes, while others steer clear of garlic and onions. It’s tough to have a one-size-fits-all approach or menu here. Hence, I have to adjust my recipes based on the audience I am serving,” he explains.
Reflecting on his initial visits to India, Scaioli notes that the pizza scene was not up to the mark. But there has been a positive transformation with more Italian restaurants like L’Osteria Bella opening. Why is the Indian market deprived of good pizza? His answer: they use the wrong flour.
All about the flour
According to the chef, Indian flour “isn’t bad, but it’s not ideal for making pizza”. This he adds is also true for Turkey, the Emirates, Australia, and Russia, where only local grain is used. Scaioli points out that all flours differ, with variations in protein content and the presence of gluten. There are specific flours for bread. “I aim to bring this culinary knowledge to India,” he says while stressing the need for two types of flours—one robust and another relatively lighter – to make the pizza dough.
Chefs often lament the high cost of Italian flour. “Local Indian flour costs around Rs 60, good Indian flour is priced at Rs 120, and the Italian one costs about Rs 300. With one kilogram of flour, you can make six to seven pizzas. As each pizza sells for Rs 800 or Rs 900, chefs shouldn’t complain about the cost of the flour. It might reduce your profit, but what you are serving is of top-notch quality,” he says. Scaioli exclusively works with Italian flour in India but incorporates local produce like mozzarella, burrata, and vegetables. “I get my mozzarella from a vendor in Mumbai. I was surprised to find such good-quality mozzarella. On the other hand, while I use local vegetables in my dishes, I am not a big fan of them. Their hygiene bothers me,” he notes.
Delhi loves Italian
Delhi has a special fondness for Italian cuisine he observes. “People here are well travelled and are exposed to various cuisines. They understand what makes a great pizza. Even cities like Bengaluru, Hyderabad, and Ahmedabad share the same enthusiasm for pizza,” he says. What are the Indian favourites? In the vegetarian category, Margarita is a timeless favourite and a fusion of Burrata, cherry tomatoes, and Parmesan. Among non-vegetarians, pepperoni and Parma Ham are quite popular. Scaioli personally enjoys seafood pizza but acknowledges that seafood consumption is relatively low in India.
Delhi, in particular, occupies a special place in Scaioli’s heart. By October he plans to open a restaurant here.
Pizza Palooza: March 2 & 3, 7pm onwards, at L’Osteria Bella, Holiday Inn, Aerocity