Flowing drapes, vintage embroidery, and handmade tassels got an international showcase at the four-day London Fashion Week held between February 16-20 at London’s Hyde Park. The lineup of designers who showcased their creations included Gopi Vaid, Harvinder Kaur (Khadi India), Jigya M, Karn Malhotra, Manzar Hazarika, Mouktika by Padma Swarupa Bhagavatula, Mokaa by Gujjarpuli Tejaswini, Nitin Bal Chauhan and Tanieya Khanuja. Excerpts of a conversation with Khanuja, Chauhan and Kaur.
What does your brand stand for?
Conscious luxury and a celebration of the modern woman’s ability to shape her narrative through fashion. We stand for creating timeless pieces that transcend seasonal trends, emphasising quality, sustainability, and longevity.
How do you source your materials?
We follow a meticulous process that considers factors such as environmental impact, quality, and aesthetics. We collaborate with suppliers who share our commitment to sustainability and ensure that the materials we use align with the theme and aesthetic of the specific collection, thus maintaining our standard of conscious luxury.
Take us through your latest collection.
‘Iconic Diaries’ is a tribute to women who have made significant contributions to history. It draws inspiration from their essence, infusing it into modern interpretations of timeless elegance. Each piece in the collection reflects the strength, grace, and individuality of these women, translated into a sophisticated range of structured ensembles, bodycon dresses, easy-to-wear sarees, and power pantsuits, thus embodying the spirit of empowered femininity.
How do you decide on the pieces and materials to use?
I delve deep into the diverse cultural influences and historical narratives that inspire me. Each collection is a reflection of this exploration. In selecting materials, I prioritise quality, sustainability, and craftsmanship.
The association with MEDUSA adds a unique dimension to your showcase.
Our association with MEDUSA provides a unique platform to showcase Indian designers on the international stage. We aim to amplify our presence on the global stage, thus contributing to the recognition of Indian fashion worldwide.
Take us through the collection showcased at the Fashion Week.
We brought in magnificent textiles that we have been working on for a while, selected from the deep valleys of Ladakh and Zanskar and made from hand-spun and hand-woven textiles. Our styles featured inventive pattern creation and zero-waste fabric draping. For LFW, we provided an array of creatively draped and constructed jackets, corsets, scarves, tops, and skirts, all in pure wool with our trademark 3D embroidery.
You have worked for the upliftment of Himachali crafts through your NGO Sewa Himalayan and you designed a collection called, ‘LUSH FOR LIFE’.
The collection title was inspired by Irving Stone’s biography of Vincent van Gogh, Lust for Life. At Chamba, my hometown, I saw an abundance of crafts that needed care and founded an NGO to mobilise resources and collaborate with the government to improve outcomes by fortifying the supply chain, bringing in designers from across the nation to modernise existing crafts, and preserving indigenous knowledge through documentation.
HARVINDER KAUR
Khadi is tied up with the history of India’s freedom movement. Why did you want your styles to be khadi-based?
It was not till the past decade or so that Khadi started becoming popular among designers. The main reason behind this is the versatility of Khadi. Whatever outfit you make out of Khadi, you will have a signature design at hand so designers feel they don’t lose out on the novelty factor!
Please explain the basics of making of khadi.
It starts with ‘ginning’, which is the process of separating fibers from the cotton seeds with the help of a comb-like tool. The slivers derived from the seeds are spun using spinning wheels, which leads to a thin yarn that leads us to ‘warping’, which involves getting the cotton ready for weaving. The yarn is put through the ‘weaving’ process, on looms, leading to the creation of fabric. The final step in the process is ‘dyeing’.
What was the design inspiration for your collection at the London Fashion Week?
The earthiness, originality, and versatility of Khadi forms the basis of my collection and the colours I add, I believe, add to their attractiveness.
What has led to the reach of the fashion industry of India?
The Internet has single-handedly transformed the fashion industry in India, opening up a world of opportunities for designers across the country. There is a global audience awaiting your designs! However, the widening of our horizons is accompanied by a demand for transparency and ethical accountability, which is a blessing in disguise, as it inspires designers to adopt better practices like sustainability.