It is a truth universally acknowledged that you can remove a person from Delhi, but not Delhi from the person. There is a romantic lure to this city, which no one has been able to resist, as history would validate. Be it the history that catches up with you at every turn you take, or the vibrant flavours that make this city irresistible, or the old-world charm that is served as a garnish with a world that is trying to keep pace with time - the love for this city is of the kind which you keep denying, but it catches up with you one day and then stays in your heart forever.
Last week, on a beautiful clear day where the sun shone brightly as the cold breeze made the trees sway, I drove to Dr Zakir Hussain Marg, to the iconic The Oberoi. Palash trees dotted the path with their fiery orange hue, as the rays of the sun filtered in from the lush trees. Chef Vineet Bhatia had invited me to ‘Dhilli’ - a modern Indian restaurant at the icon, which celebrates Chef Bhatia’s love for Delhi of yore, while keeping abreast with the times. “Dhilli for me is meant to be an ode to the culinary capital of India. I wanted to showcase what drives Delhi. It is beyond the land of the butter chicken”, Bhatia explains when asked about his restaurant that is celebrating its first anniversary.
There is a quintessential Delhi warmth that Chef Bhatia and his wife Rashima exude, making you comfortable from the onset. I was curious about what lured them back to Delhi after all these decades, and having won numerous international accolades, including three Michelin stars for his restaurants.
Upon insistence, he tells me, “My relationship with Dhilli stems from a collaboration with the Oberoi group to create a restaurant that celebrates Delhi’s gastronomic heritage. Delving into Delhi’s food history revealed its status as the culinary seat of power in India, with distinct flavours found in different pockets of the city, from Rajouri Garden to Jama Masjid. Being offered the opportunity to establish Dhilli in Delhi, where I spent many formative years, holds immense significance. My family’s roots in Delhi, coupled with fond memories of summers spent there, add a personal touch to the restaurant’s concept.”
The menu at Dhilli has been carefully curated and organised by prominent neighbourhoods that showcase the myriad cultural influences that the city has witnessed. We started with the Chatak Chenna Chaat, which was refreshing and chilled, with a yoghurt parfait, dahi bhalla ice cream, boondi-sev, and yoghurt-pomegranate bark - a touch of Chef’s expertise in taking something classic and giving it his modern-Indian touch. There are new additions to the menu too, like the Rajma galauti, which is subtle but bursting with flavours as you bite into it. “Should we make this a part of Rajouri Garden or Jama Masjid?”, Rashima asks me with a smile.
While we tried to figure out where the dish fits best, we were served a plethora of dishes—some new additions and some old. The Marwari paneer papad subzi was a textural and flavourful wonder - an ode to the Marwari community of Purani Dilli. But the star of the day was the ‘Gul-Gulshan’—a chocolate pistachio galauti served with rose halwa. Now this is something one couldn’t have imagined, and yet it was so seamless and fit right in - just like Delhi and its people.
“So what is Delhi to you?” I ask Chef Bhatia again before parting ways, and he says, “Dhilli represents more than just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of Delhi’s culinary legacy and my personal journey intertwined with the city’s vibrant culinary landscape and food history.”
I couldn’t help but reminisce about the lines by the famous poet Bashir Badr, who said, “Dil ki basti purani Dilli hai, jo bhi guzra hai usne loota hai” (Heart’s dwelling is like Old Delhi, whoever has passed through has tried to acquire a slice of it). After all, is there any better way to sum up the grand old city, just as its glorious winters give way to the bloom of spring and a fresh new season to follow?
Vernika Awal is a food writer who is known for her research-based articles through her blog ‘Delectable Reveries’