What the monuments in Delhi remember

Five Mughal women ruled, shaped and left a mark on Delhi especially in its built heritage. There are stories behind Delhi’s five iconic landmarks, from the bustling streets of Chandni Chowk to the grandeur of Humayun’s Tomb.
Roshanara Bagh
Roshanara Bagh

Many are not aware of the role women of yore have played in the coming into being of some of the monuments and mosques in Delhi that have turned into the city’s favourite haunts. TMS brings you five such stories.

Humayun’s Tomb

When Emperor Humayun died in 1556, the Mughal empire faced a period of uncertainty; Humayun’s first wife and chief consort, Bega Begum, travelled to Mecca. She was the first woman to travel to Hajj all by herself and thus earned the title ‘Haji Begum’. Upon her return, grieving, but determined, she vowed to honour her husband’s memory. Commissioning a grand mausoleum, she initiated a new era of Mughal architecture. This mausoleum, known for its intricate design and grandeur, housing the graves of over 150 Mughal family members, known as the ‘dormitory of the Mughals’, set the standard for future dynastic mausoleums. Its influence can be seen in the later Mughal garden-tomb complexes, from the Safdarjung Tomb to the iconic Taj Mahal.

Khairul Manazil Mosque

When a young Akbar ascended to the Mughal throne at a time of political uncertainty, guiding him through these challenges was his foster mother and chief wet nurse, Maham Anga. She not only served as his political adviser but also acted as the de facto regent of the empire from 1560 to 1562. Her influence was profound, evident in the painting of Akbarnama, where she is depicted seated right beside Akbar in his court. Recognised as one of the most powerful women of her time, she commissioned the construction of Khairul Manazil in 1561. This mosque, located opposite the Purana Qila and southeast of the Sher Shah Gate, once housed a madrassa that no longer exists. However, the prayer chambers remain and are in use today for Friday prayers, a testament to Maham Anga’s enduring legacy.

Humayun’s Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb

Chandni Chowk

The fourth ruler of the Mughal empire, Shah Jahan (1628-1658), commissioned the building of Shahjahanabad (Chandni Chowk), a new capital and entrusted the city’s design to his eldest daughter, Jahanara Begum. Jahanara was not only interested in engineering and architecture but also owned a ship, and took care of trade and revenues, a rarity for Mughal women. She also planned the new capital, ensuring that the commercial square ‘Chowk’ was situated outside the Lahori Gate. The trading hub had an inn, a garden, and a flowing stream for the traders. The caravanserai she designed had 90 rooms, a hammam (public bath) and pavilions that held gatherings and public bazaars that continue even today.

Roshanara Bagh

Roshanara, Jahanara’s sister and Shah Jahan’s second-born held a significant position in the Mughal court. Her influence grew as she backed her brother Aurangzeb, the winner in the fight for the throne, and had thwarted a plot by her father and brother, Dara Shikoh, to assassinate Aurangzeb. Upon Aurangzeb’s accession to the throne in 1658, she was appointed the Padshah Begum. She commissioned the construction of a Mughal-style garden in 1650, which today stands as one of Delhi’s largest gardens. Interestingly, this garden later became a summer retreat for the British, who eventually established the Roshanara Club, on whose grounds former India cricket captain Virat Kohli played some of his finest knocks.

Fatehpuri Mosque

Delhi’s second-largest mosque was built by one of Shah Jahan’s wives, Fatehpuri Begum. The Fatehpuri Mosque constructed in 1650, stands at the other end of the Chandni Chowk main street, opposite the Red Fort. It became an important location during the 1857 rebellion, serving as a station for Indian troops. After the rebellion, the mosque was taken over by the British who sold it to Rai Lala Chunnamal for Rs 19,000, with only the prayer hall opened for public use.

Fatehpuri Mosque
Fatehpuri Mosque

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