The restaurant chain Copper Chimney has injected new energy into its recently-opened Rajouri Garden outlet. Inspired by the vision of the late JK Kapur, a well-known film distributor of Mumbai, the restaurant boasts custom tandoors and secret spice blends passed down three generations. Its culinary editor, Shikha Nath, discusses the rich 52-year-legacy of the brand, her connection with it, and why they chose to make their mark in Delhi relatively late.
When Nath, 62, joined her family’s business, Charcoal Concepts, a company that advises restaurants, in 1997, Copper Chimney came on board as a client. It made its debut in Mumbai at Kalaghoda, with the legendary actor Dilip Kumar inaugurating the first outlet. Currently thriving in Pune, Chennai and Bengaluru, the restaurant has outlets in Kuwait, London and Kuala Lumpur as well.
Nath’s love for food began in childhood. “I was always fascinated by street food, the art of fermentation, and pickling. Though my cooking skills flourished over time, it wasn’t until 1997, when I met Kapur, that I considered turning this passion into a career,” she says. Kapur opened Copper Chimney in Mumbai in 1972 as a hobby, weaving his passion for food with personal memories of food of undivided India and the refugee cooking experience. “I learnt the nuances of traditional food from him. Kapur never used any artificial colour in the dishes. If it was a yellowish curry, you could be sure it was due to the turmeric. If it’s a bright red, it would be our robust chilli paste,” says Nath.
At Copper Chimney, every bite is tied to a memory. For instance, kadak roomali, “an accidental dish” born in the kitchen in the ’70s, goes back to “one of our chefs flipping the roomali roti on the griddle and forgetting about it”. Slathered with butter, spices, and a medley of sesame seeds, it is accompanied by a Bengal gram hummus, surprising the palate with its intricate flavour profile. Next was a platter of kababs – from the aromatic seekh kabab to the luscious reshmi kabab – each piece of meat was coated in an irresistible blend of spices.
I move soon after to a bowl of rogan josh, followed by paneer butter masala and Nath’s favourite, Chelo Kabab, a rice pudding crowned with kabab chunks. This 1972 dish has a unique balance between the kebab’s spice and hotness and the rice pudding’s subtle comfort.
The Ustaads
Nath says it is the Ustaads who drive the restaurant. “We have two generations of Ustaads. These are the people who have been with us since the beginning. They are the main guys who train the fresh blood that comes in,” she says.The first Ustaad at Copper Chimney was Tari, a remarkable woman, at a time when kitchens were male-dominated. Having migrated from Pakistan and residing in Bandra, Tari was known for her exquisite choti roti. “While this delicate creation is not currently on our menu, we are soon going to pay homage to her culinary mastery by reintroducing them,” she says. Do you think what worked back in time will resonate with diners today? The classics always work, she says. “The dishes on our menu have been there since 1972 with minor tweaks”.
The power of Indian food
Nath, who picks paneer, butter naan, kali daal, and jeera aloo as her ideal meal, embraces international cuisine but fiercely advocates for the enduring comfort and staying power of Indian food. “There’s immense room for creativity and imagination with Indian cuisine. Even when introducing something new, at Copper Chimney, we strive to build upon the legacy we’ve cultivated over the last five decades,” she says. Nath steers clear of fusion food, as it doesn’t align with the brand image.
Despite global success, why did it take 52 years for Copper Chimney to have a presence in Delhi? Nath explains that reaching a particular city sometimes takes time. She also acknowledged the challenge, considering Delhi’s status as a hub of north Indian cuisine. “There is also a lot of pressure on us because we are bringing North Indian flavours from Bombay. Delhi, however, welcomed us with open arms. Diners have been thronging our outlet in huge numbers,” she adds.