Some years ago when Delhi designer Payal Jain was hiking in the redwood forests of coastal California, she was enchanted by their lush beauty. As she walked through the trees, she noticed how the light filtered through the canopy, creating patterns on the forest ground— like a dance of shadows and beams. “The air was crisp and I could hear my breath with immense clarity. There was silence and stillness, only interrupted by the birds chirping and rustling of leaves. As I stood there, soaking in the beauty around me, I felt completely at peace, in perfect harmony with nature,” she says.
The experience has culminated in her new collection ‘Enchanted Forest’ launched recently at DLF Golf and Country Club in Gurugram. The collection is like a walk through the magical forest of enchantment, which exists in the designer’s dream. “The edit emerges from a reality that merges with fantasy, where one finds oneself in complete bliss. That sense of awe and childlike wonder is what I have tried to capture in this collection,” she says.
Inspiration in the woods
The collection features embellished couture pieces such as gowns, jackets, corsets, and lace dresses. Staying true to the theme, each ensemble celebrates the many moods of nature largely with its colour palette. “The shades range from glittering ivory hues of the moonlight, rich emerald greens of forest undergrowth, sapphire blues of serene waters, fiery reds and oranges of fallen autumn leaves, and deep blush pinks that mirror the delicate wildflowers,” the designer says adding that the colours reflect the forest’s beauty at different times of day.
Just like a forested landscape is dotted with flowers, rivers, woods and colours of wildlife, the designer has used surface ornamentation on fabrics like velvet, chiffon, organza, and eco-friendly silk taffeta to bring their allure to life.
“We have used surface manipulation and innovative dyeing methods to replicate nature’s ombré effects. Laser-cut detailing is used to add intricate forest-inspired patterns. Further, the collection features hand embroidery, 3D appliqués, beadwork, and metallic accents that mimic the magical elements of the forest, such as fireflies and moonlit dew. Sculptural elements like exaggerated shoulders and corseted waists, paired with flowing skirts, embody the balance of strength and delicacy in nature,” Jain tells TMS.
While Indian couture is mostly about traditional bridal wear, the ‘Enchanted Forest’ collection aims to offer a fresh perspective. It uses Western design techniques like Guipure — a heavy lace embroidery that originated in 16th century England and France, and Chantilly — a lacework that originated in 17th century France.
Giving back to nature
Jain has remained at the forefront of sustainable design. In the past, she has used natural yarns, hand-block prints, natural dyes and repurposed old garments.
She has also banned plastic use of any kind at her atelier in an industry that employs 60 per cent of all materials made of plastic. ‘Enchanted Forest’ also stays true to her mission of creating mindful luxury.
“The edit places a strong emphasis on sustainability, incorporating eco-friendly materials and techniques. It uses natural textiles like silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette and taffeta. Intricate cutwork techniques are followed to minimise waste. The use of diaphanous silk tulle, organza, and velvet is balanced with natural Tencel and modal linings, to be mindful of the environmental footprint. The focus on hand-embroidery also promotes sustainable artisanal techniques,” she says.