Picture this: A grand Mughal feast, bathed in the warm glow of a glittering chandelier, spread across a table draped in rich velvet and silk. Precious flatware gleam alongside icy water in pewter tumblers, sharbat and wine sparkle in goblets, and an array of biryanis, delicately smoked meats, and artisanal breads take centre stage. Delightful desserts of cream, nuts, fruits, and flavoured yoghurts add a sweet finale—all overseen by an empress with an impeccable eye for elegance and presided over by the emperor himself, a passionate foodie and connoisseur of culinary arts.
Say salaam to Alwan-e-Nemat: A Journey Through Jahangir’s Kitchen, a faithful exploration into the culinary artistry that blossomed during Emperor Jahangir’s reign. The Mughal empire is a period synonymous with grandeur and cultural efflorescence, architectural marvels and culinary treasures. Based on a 17th-century Persian manuscript, this book offers a rare glimpse into the kitchens of one of India’s most extravagant emperors. Author Salma Yusuf Husain blends history with culinary expertise to present Mughal gastronomy that continues to influence Indian cuisine.
A culinary chronicle
Husain’s journey began during her stint at the All India Radio for Afghan, Persian programme. She had visited Afghanistan a few times and learnt about their food, history and connection to Mughal cuisine. Her interest piqued and she began digging around for culinary accounts of the Mughal emperors. The hunt led to her discovery of a rare manuscript in the National Museum of India. This text, calligraphed on cream-colored paper and bordered with blue margins, is a treasure trove of 374 recipes cataloguing the sophisticated tastes of Jahangir’s court.
“My first feeling upon finding the manuscript was to uncover the real cuisine of the Mughals,” Husain says, speaking to TMS. Her decision to translate and curate the recipes stemmed from her desire to preserve and share the authentic flavours that defined Mughal kitchens.
Jahangir’s culinary legacy, enriched by Persian, Central Asian, and Indian traditions, is vividly captured in the recipes. Unlike his ancestor Babur, who preferred Central Asian fare, or Akbar, whose table reflected his Rajasthani alliances, Jahangir embraced the regional flavours of his empire. The manuscript reflects this evolution with recipes that incorporate Gujarati influences, a testament to the emperor’s assimilation into India’s cultural fabric.
Husain’s selection of over 100 recipes from the heavy manuscript thoughtfully balances historical authenticity with modern palates. Dishes like Husaini kebab, naranj pulao, and harisha khasa are simplified yet retain their original essence. Husain’s adaptations—using modern ingredients such as refined flour and chillies—make these centuries-old recipes accessible to contemporary cooks without compromising their authenticity.
The art of Mughal gastronomy
The book delves beyond recipes to explore the aesthetics of Mughal dining. Food was served in gold and silver platters, and dishes were adorned with edible gold and silver foil—a practice still seen in Indian sweets. Dining rituals were equally elaborate, with music and poetry enhancing the sensory experience of royal banquets. Empress Nur Jahan, Jahangir’s influential consort, emerges as a pivotal figure in the evolution of Mughal cuisine. Known for her artistic sensibilities, she introduced innovations like rainbow-coloured yoghurts, candied fruit glazes, and intricate food garnishing techniques.
“Nur Jahan’s aesthetic contributions were unparalleled,” Husain says. “She combined her love for visual beauty with culinary creativity, elevating the art of dining to new heights.” The manuscript pays homage to her legacy with recipes that showcase her affinity for flavour and presentation.
A historical and culinary fusion
One of the interesting aspects of Alwan-e-Nemat is its documentation of how the Mughals adapted their cuisine to local tastes. The book underscores the transformation of Persian-Turkish dishes into what we now recognise as Mughlai cuisine. Dishes like do-piyaza, koftas, halwa kaddu, and sheermal epitomise this fusion, blending the richness of Persian flavours with the spices and textures of Indian culinary traditions.
Husain’s research highlights this collaborative nature of Mughal kitchens. She says, “The emperors loved experimenting with local foods and often directed their chefs to modify recipes to suit their tastes. This inclusivity and innovation were key to the popularity of Mughal cuisine.” The enduring influence of Mughal cuisine is evident even today in the bustling streets of Old Delhi, where dishes like kebabs, haleem, and nihari continue to draw food lovers, she points out.
Notably, the book eschews modern visual aids like photographs to accompany the recipes, staying true to its manuscript’s 17th-century roots. “The focus was on the text, not visuals,” Husain explains.
Alwan-e-Nemat is more than a cookbook. It is a captivating record of a bygone era where food was both an art and a symbol of power. Husain’s meticulous research brings to life the grandeur of Jahangir’s court and its gastronomic sophistication and conjures the splendour of Mughal feasts.
“The Mughals changed the narrative of Indian cuisine,” she says. “Their legacy is not just in the dishes they introduced but in the cultural amalgamation they fostered.”